THE WEEK IN FASHION: 12th- 16th MARCH

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

The Week in Fashion is back from its fashion month break and ready to bring you, our lovely readers their end of week fashion news round-up. Following the marathon of catwalk shows you'd think people of the fashion world might have spent the week collapsed on the sofa in the recovery position, however I'm pleased to say that there's plenty to tell you about...

Samantha Cameron, in Alessandra Rich, and Michelle Obama, in Marchesa, at Wedesnday's State Dinner (image from dailymail.co.uk)

Just in case you hadn't noticed, Dave and Sam Cam dropped into the White House for a few days this week to visit the Obamas. Instead of your average bunch of flowers or bottle of wine, the Brit contingent came bearing gifts of a ping pong table and a Jonathan Saunders scarf. There was a State Dinner attended by politicians, celebrities and other powerful people like Anna Wintour. The US Vogue editor picked a Chanel couture gown which she had already, shock horror, worn once before back in 2009.

Anna Wintour at the Met Gala in 2009. She wore the same dress to
Wednesday night's state dinner (image from www.nymag.com)

Michelle and Samantha naturally did us all proud on the fashion front. Alessandra Rich dressed the PM's wife in a floor-length, high neck blue lace gown from her Spring/ Summer collection. The style reflects the new covered up fashion mood we're feeling for AW12. It has been said that the dress was Sam Cam's own way of bringing a bit of real-life Downton Abbey to Americans who are going crazy for the series. Meanwhile, Mrs Obama went for her tried and tested State Dinner look- knockout dress and chunky necklace. Her outfit was by Marchesa; luckily Georgina Chapman, the woman behind the label, was at the dinner to see her good work in action. During the visit, Sam Cam also wore a few of her favourite London designers including Emilia Wickstead, Burberry and the gorgeous Roksanda Ilincic.

SamCam in Roksanda Ilincic with Michelle O in Zac Posen (image from in style.co.uk)

Huge congratulations to Lucy Yeomans, currently Editor-in-Chief at Harper's Bazaar, who will be moving to Net-a-Porter to head up their editorial offering from September. The move is another indicator of the way retail and editorial are becoming ever more intertwined. DisneyRoller Girl has written about what this means for the fashion industry. Jenny Dickinson, currently at Elle, will become Acting Editor at Harper's Bazaar. We look forward to seeing Net-a-Porter with the Lucy Yeomans touch.

In more moving-about news, Barney's Ney York Vice President and Fashion Director, Amanda Brooks, resigned this week and announced plans to move to the UK. We wonder if we'll be seeing her take up a big job in London sometime soon?

Nicholas Sarkozy awards Franca Sozzani with France's highest honour (image from fashionologie.com)

Congratulations are also in order for Vogue Italia editor, Franca Sozzani who was awarded France's highest honour, the Knight of the Legion of Honour, in Paris this week. Many of the great and good from Italian and French fashion were there, including Raf Simons, Karl Lagerfeld, Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce, indeed Franca was wearing straight-off-the-catwalk Dolce and Gabbana for the occasion. Franca is the world's most accessible Vogue editor, with over 80,000 Twitter followers and a daily blog on the Vogue Italia site. She posted Conde Nast's Chairman Jonathan Newhouse's speech the day after the ceremony, it's a great read.

Sparks flying: Arizona and Freja for Chloe (image from telegraph.co.uk)

My own personal number one model, Arizona Muse, has this week been announced as the new face of Estee Lauder. The beauty giant's Creative Director, Richard Ferretti, told WWD that "Arizona is warm, engaging and smart. She has an innate graciousness that we believe will translate to whatever advertising we choose to do with her." Apparently, Muse's first Lauder ads will be out "within a year". We can already enjoy Arizona in ads for Fendi, Massimo Dutti and Chloe, in which she appears with Freja Erichsen, her sometime girlfriend. Arizona has said that she is a big fan of Estee Lauder's Re-Nutriv- we're adding that to our shopping list this weekend then.

House of Holland SS12 (from catwalking.com)

If you're planning a spot of shopping this weekend then may we suggest that you head to Harrods where the new House of Holland collection drops today? We've had a sneak peek and love the Miami pastel shades and over blown animal prints. Our favourite piece might just be the pastel panel shirt (above). Harrods have also made the lovely Mr Holland their designer of the month. They've given FEAL this little video in which Henry talks about how he started off working on magazines before moving into design- his big break came when Gareth Pugh and Giles Deacon wore his tees to take their bows in 2006. Check out the full interview below and on the Harrods site

Else Schiaparelli, the Surrealist designers whose label Galliano was said to be in talks to
reinvent this week. 

There is still plenty of designer musical chairs action going on. And it's only increased this week with news that Derek Lam is leaving Tod's after six years designing for the classic Italian label. There have also been rumours that John Galliano is set to make a return. Vogue and WWD reported this week that he may have been set to reinvent Schiaparelli, which is now owned by the Tod's group. However, Galliano's spokesman claimed they were 'rumours and nothing more'.

Alexa Chung in Holly Fulton, one of the designers who'll be up for grabs at the British Designers Collective (image from Vogue via catwalkqueen.tv)

If you're a regular reader, then you'll know that we're getting prepped to visit the British Designers Collective at Bicester Village which launches next Wednesday. So, we were very happy to hear this week that one of Britain's best fashion ambassadors, Alexa Chung, is the spokesperson for the initiative. She'll be there on Wednesday and so will FEAL so look out for updates on what Miss Chung loves about the fact we get to buy pieces from the hottest Brit designers at Bicester Village's reduced prices.

Avenue 32 is a new web shopping site which gives each designer their own space- the aim is to make it a personalised experience, more like popping into a designer's own boutique than scrolling through web pages which group many brands together. Just a few of the designers who have areas on the site include Giles, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Preen and Emilio de la Morena. We like!

Now Avenue 32 have created a film 'What are you gonna wear?' which showcases the new designers landing for SS12. To celebrate, they are also offering anyone savvy enough to enter the chance to win a £4,000 Spring/Summer wardrobe. You can find out more details and enter here- what are you waiting for?

Mary and the team in their knicker factory (image from dailymirror.co.uk)

Finally, we hope you were all enjoyed Mary's new show 'Mary's Bottom Line' on Channel 4 last night. It's a three-part series in which Mary dusts off the sewing machines at an old textile factory in Middleton and employs eight young people from the area to launch her Made in Britain "Kinky Knickers". It's pretty emotional but also a really interesting exploration of how the decline in manufacturing has affected whole towns in the UK. And the knickers, I can personally vouch, are lovely. Get them now at Liberty, in-store and online. Our favourites are the pink and peach.

HENRY HOLLAND VS THE 90S

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

In the run up to my getting the hell out of London, I missed quite possibly the best pre-collction lookbook of the Resort 12 season, by Henry Holland. Ok, so its not quite a look-on-look display, and you don't feel you get the measure or feel of the collection but damn if its not the most perfect expression of the House of Holland brand possible. Fashion Film viewed via the Internet is shaping up to be the best way forward for young brands to express themselves. As evidenced by the beyond sexy British model Eliza Cummins (who really can dance)working it to Neneh Cherry's Buffalo Stance (I like, know every word)in the style of the Groove Is In the Heart video by Dee-lite, this House of Holland lookbook is my favourite bit of fashion fluff right now.

PRE COLLECTION SS12 from House of Holland on Vimeo.

LFW TREND SPOT #2: TWEED

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

The general consensus flying around Somerset House is that next season is all about English heritage style, and if there is one fabric that captures the essence of English-ness, it's good old-fashioned tweed.

Yes, tweed. The fabric of grandad caps, riding jackets and skirts worn by geography teachers everywhere has been embraced by London designers across the board, and been made to look fresh, exciting and desirable. Blame the Royal wedding, blame the Olympics, even blame the Kings Speech, if you like, because for a while now, there has been a feeling that now is the right time to celebrate our culture and style heritage. Tweed is the perfect fabric to showcase this feeling, and just as silk has overtaken jersey as the reigning summer fabric, tweed has replaced leather as the outerwear fabric of choice for Autumn/Winter 11. These tweedy collections show just how brilliant the Englishwoman can look, if she puts her mind to it. 

Jaeger London

 

AW11 for Jaeger was strong, powerful and elegant. Large lapels on knee skimming jackets with military pockets, and high waisted, wide leg trousers gave traditional tweed a contemporary feeling, whilst referencing its' classic style.

House of Holland

Trust Henry to take something traditional and give it a cheeky twist. The tweed skirt suit was updated with a flippy mini length and black velvet lapels, while the hot pink colour swiftly vamoosed any granny-chic connotations. The classic sweater and slacks combo was also created in a yellowy orange tweed, lending the entire collection a very tongue-in-cheek feeling of retro, ladylike dressing with added naughtiness.

Margaret Howell

 Margaret Howell's extremely elegant collection made me want to throw out my garish wardrobe and start again with a neutral palette, refined, classic pieces and some incredible, belted, tweed outerwear. So simple, yet so completely beautiful.

JW Anderson

 

Both myself and the Fash Ed are MASSIVE JW Anderson  fans, and were so excited to see his debut collection just for gals. His womenswear contained all the elements that make us go crazy for his menswear, and in the AW11 presentation he mixed traditional tweed for outerwear with Liberty silks, for a double dose of English heritage.

Mulberry

Mulberry's brilliant English countryside-inspired collection is the perfect vehicle for the tweed trend. Again, updated with a modern colour palette of deep pinks and forest greens, their tweed jackets are the perfect item to get the urban fox running around in some fields, while still looking stylish.

 Holly Fulton got playful with tweed, oversizing it and using yellow and black threads to make the fabric come alive!

And last but not least, we have just returned from the typically awe-inspiring Erdem show, where, shock horror, a little bit of tweed crept in amongst his trademark prints. Pictures to follow later!

Basically, if you are wearing anything this Autumn, better make it tweed. London has spoken.

All images: Chris Moore Catwalking (except for Holly Fulton, from Style.com)

LONDON FASHION WEEK AW11: THE HIGHLIGHTS SO FAR #1

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

We're into day three of LFW. It gets majorly busy from here on in, but we've found an hour to share what is inspiring us.

   JONATHAN SAUNDERS DIVINE MODERN ELEGANCE

This collection puts Jonathan in the big leagues for me

The designer totally reinvented his print technique, the mix of print and graphic is brilliant

 J.W ANDERSON SHOW

Fierce faced model Hannah Noble at J.W Anderson. This  outfit is so fresh, young and accomplished looking. More surprising still that this is the designer's second womenswear collection.  

  

DANIELLE SCUTT COMEBACK

Danielle Scutt back on the runway off-schedule Saturday morning after self-imposed exile. It was a tightly edited very Danielle-at-her-best kind of show. Sexy and fierce all at once with great gold jewellery piled on. We really like the fake-hair tassel earrings. Tassel earring being most popular also in New York. Danielle is a talent who finds the limelight hard, but she worked it and produced a collection to be proud of.

HOUSE OF HOLLAND NAUGHTY & NICE JUMPERS

Henry's friends tittered on the front row when this jumper, modelled by this butter-wouldn't-melt demure young lady, appeared on the catwalk. At the end of his show Henry took his bow wearing one. In slang sign-language it apparently means "shall we fuck?". Though we would like confirmation of this. Any sign language experts out there?

Henry also did some more tasteful looks, such as this. Jumpers/sweaters whatever you call them, are going to be major for AW11. Love the pearl detailing on this jumper. Also the orange/yellow flecked herringbone tweed trousers are special. Its a young royal, gone cool. I feel strongly that Henry is stepping smack-bang into the fashion territory vacated by Luella Bartley whern her business closed down. Smart boy.

CHARLES ANASTASE FRENCH DOLLY GIRLS

Double-breasted coats, jackets and car-coats are popping up all over the runway. A huge trend in the making too, is that for looping a seemingly endless woollen scarf multiple times around the nek to create a scarf larger than an in-flight-pillow. Oh and wide-leg trousers are here to stay.

WILL UPDATE MORE LATER!

MALIBU BARBIE: THE NEW STYLE ICON FOR SS11?!

Posted by Fashion Editor and Junior at Large

I'm in Paris. I love my little hotel on Rue St Honore, and how its just a block from Colette. In the cafe downstairs the manager even remembers my favourite red wine. The first 24 hours have been hectic. I interviewed Heidi Klum at the Ritz for Grazia, not before practically walking into Mario Testino in the lobby, and then being caught up in the flurry of Naomi Campbell leaving the building. Then there was Cavalli's amaaaazing party (read about in Grazia next week). After delivering the copy my first show was Balmain. Read the review over on Grazia Daily.

In the meantime, we have been thinking about the most important looks from London, and have realised that there is a new style icon in town.

Meet the muse for SS11: the one and only Malibu Barbie.

 

 The original Malibu Barbie, circa 1971

Having been released in 1971, Malibu Barbie is an icon from the era that nearly every designer referenced in their SS11 collections. Originally, she was sold wearing a fetching aqua swimsuit, with an eveningwear ensemble called 'Lemon Kick' - a yellow confection of pleated chiffon, with on-trend angel sleeves and flared trousers. 

As bizarre as it may sound, it does seem that Malibu Barbie's pastel-perfect colour scheme, love of a pleat and a way with floaty chiffon has indeed influenced what we will all be wearing next summer. The catwalks were awash with a palette of aqua, vibrant pinks, and flashes of yellow. Sleeves, capes, trousers and dresses were billowing silk-chiffon affairs in very Seventies styles, and denim was always in the palest of Charlie Girl washes. There were large helpings of crystal glitter (a Barbie essential), A-line shapes were enhanced with pleating and the abundance of fringing added to the Malibu beach feel. 

Still don't believe us? Let the pictures speak for themselves...

 House of Holland SS11

 

  House of Holland SS11

Richard Nicholl SS11

 

Giles SS11

 Unique SS11

 Matthew Williamson SS11

Mark Fast SS11

 Richard Nicholl SS11

It's not just the clothes, either. California golden blonde flicky hair, rainbow eye makeup, neon pink highlights and glittery lipgloss were the key runway beauty looks. Remind you of anybody?

Julian J Smith SS11

So there you have it: Malibu Barbie, inspiring girls since 1971, and the style icon for the new season. 

Images: Mattel, Style.com

SWAROVSKI LFW PREVIEW: FFS, its HENRY HOLLAND!!

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

Henry

Henry is a busy man. Fresh from a trip to New York last weekend where he hosted a Fashion's Night Out party with ASOS.com (for whom he designed a special maxi dress) and Teen Vogue, he bounded into his studio to meet with us having just been at the gym. "I saw Erdem and I often see Richard Nicoll, now all we need is Chris and Tammy Kane to make it a fashion happening," he quipped before skipping off to spruce his famous quiff back into place with some Elnett. 

He seems weirdly calm, I tell him, for a man with a catwalk show in four days. "I am weirdly calm. We're organised. There's ten people working here, at this stage we're taking delivery of something new every day from our various suppliers. It's like Christmas every day," he says and as if to prove his point his gorgeous production manager Anna signs for a large box and flourishes it in our direction. It turns out to be T-shirts in various cuts (cropped tops, Y back vests, trad T-shirts) featuring the banana print shown below in various colours. The cerulean blue is my favourite.

Then he tells me and the fashion junior about his latest two discount cards; we all love a discount card in the fashion biz. Henry Holland has a Woolworths.co.uk pick n mix card, (oh lawdy how I would love one of those) "the sweets come within three hours!!" he marvelled while chugging down a cola bottle. He is also the proud recipient of a Nandos card. Nandos feed him and five interns once a week or so. Here's a thing: Nandos is every fashionistas secret favourite fast food restaurant.

                                                 Banana leaf print Henry has developed for his SS11 HOH collection

SS11 INSPIRATION

"It started with the 70s, Studio 54, and the (1980) film Xanadu, and progressively got more and more Joan Collins and Joan Rivers. It's glitzy...but I hate the word glitzy...sophisticated is better The collection is bright, fun and young with it, but not as young as before. We're getting a bit more grown up; there's a bit of Jackie O in there. The main print is the banana leaf, which we have Swarovski'd. The banana leaf print is part inspired by the wallpaper of the restaurant Indochine in New York and part inspired by the episode of Friends when Monica is in the Bahamas and has to get her hair braided because of humidity."

He then shows me some great bustier dresses hung with fringing - take it from me, London designers are TOTALLY OBSESSED with fringing this season - and says "I'm getting my hairdresser to do some looks with the fringing." We approve.

The House of Holland studio on Charlotte Road

As you can see from the board below, Henry's shapes are cute and girlie and verging on terribly chic, but the fun in them makes them young and cool. There is copious use of gold chainmail - another Xanadu connection - and a lot of Swarovski encrusted stars, as well as darling dresses and jackets.  "I have definitely used up my Swarovski allowance this season," he says. 

The look-boards for the SS11 collection. Love how their "girl" is a mini Anna Wintour

FASHION SHOW GOSSIP?

"I'm working with BlackBerry again. Look," he says whipping out his new BlackBerry Torch, "I've got a BlackBerry Torch." Henry is such a show off.  While I seethe with jealousy (sort of) he reveals the fruits of his latest collaboration with them. "I've created a BlackBerry Torch cover that has an ear on the back of it, so when the phone is to your ear, you've got an ear on show!! We've made a hole in the ear for an earring, and we have made small versions of the House of Holland earrings for SS11 which are a Swarovski stud leading to a chain hung with a giant fluffy hoop. Next year we are hoping to create a rubber ear that is 3D." He has also collaborated for the first time with Charlotte Olympia, and the shoes look divine. To see his novelty ear thing for BlackBerry go to his sponsored blog, or rather look at this hilar photo of Sienna Miller from the blog....  

...and this one - with a better view of the ear/earring - modelled by accessories designer Katie Hillier

Now on with the show, which takes place tomorrow at 4.15pm.