THE WEEK IN FASHION: APRIL 9th-13th

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Those people at Dior at sneaky. While we were all comatose after our four day Easter weekend, they sprang upon us the news which we've been waiting for well over a year. Raf Simons is to succeed John Galliano as Creative Director at Christian Dior. Cathy Horyns broke the news for the New York Times. Of course, Twitter exploded and it wasn't long before thoughts turned to how Dior will look with Simons at the helm. The FashEd wrote about the great loves which have informed Raf's design vision until now. We can't wait for July, when Simons' first couture collection will be unveiled.

Raf to Dior (image from www.ology.com)

For quite some time, it was thought that Marc Jacobs may leave Louis Vuitton to take up the Dior role. Of course, he hasn't. Instead this week he's been celebrating his 49th birthday with a holiday in Rio. In fact, if you want to spy a designer taking time out then now is the time to keep an eye out at the world's loveliest beaches. The AW12 selling season is done and there's the whole Summer ahead to worry about SS13.

Marc rejoices in the waves as his boyfriend harry Louis looks on. (image from dailymail.co.uk)

So Marc has had free reign to frolic in the waves with his boyfriend Harry Louis and provide us with many lovely pics of their beach antics. Happy Birthday for Monday, Marc!

Marc with Amanda Lepore in 2006 (image from fashionologie.com)

While fashion's biggest vacancy has now been filled, there are still a few major designers without roles. Most notably, Stefano Pilati who left YSL after March's AW12 show to be replaced by Hedi Slimane. New whisperings this week suggest that Pilati may be recruited by Armani to take over from the eponymous designer who is now in his late 70s. Watch this space...

Stefano Pilati gets  hug from Chloe Sevingy(image from stylefrizz.com)

Daphne Guinness is donating pieces from her vast fashion collection to a Christies auction to launch and raise funds for The Isabella Blow foundation. Highlights include a silver dress which Lee McQueen made especially for Guinness in 2008. Apparently some of the items to be auctioned could sell for as  little as £300, what might that be? A Chanel button maybe? The Isabella Blow Foundation will raise funds to continue Issie's work, nurturing emerging from the art and fashion worlds.

Daphne Guinness in her bespoke McQueen dress which is expected to fetch up to £20,000 (image from vogue.co.uk)

There's still a couple of months to go before the UK goes into Jubilee and Olympic frenzy. The madness has already begun in advertising with every other TV and cinema ad featuring tenuous links to the activities. There are some perfectly delightful projects getting us geared up for a Summer of patriotism though. Harvey Nichols have transformed their windows into a mid-century tribute to Britain at the time of the Coronation. Luckily, the SS12 collections ladylike and pastel themes fit in very nicely. You nip into fishmongers "Nic's Plaice" for all trends nautical and mermaid-y while "Harvey Nickers" is the go-to for lacy prettiness. And it wouldn't be SS12 without Meadham Kirchhoff in the sweet shop.

Rodarte's Van Gogh dress takes pride of place in the greengrocers (image from telegraph.co.uk)

The mermaid at Nic's Plaice (image from telegraph.co.uk)

Meadham Kirchhoff"s sugary sweet shop (image from telegraph.co.uk)

Last week, I wrote about our culture of thinness and, more widely,  a disdain for women's bodies. This week, Ashley Judd,  a female celebrity who has been the subject of the media's wild judgements of her appearance, spoke out against the practise.

Ashley Judd, whose face has caused extensive speculation recently (image from www.thedailybeast.com)

Here's an extract from her lengthy piece, which is well worth reading in full:

"I hope the sharing of my thoughts can generate a new conversation: Why was a puffy face cause for such a conversation in the first place? How, and why, did people participate? If not in the conversation about me, in parallel ones about women in your sphere? What is the gloating about? What is the condemnation about? What is the self-righteous alleged “all knowing” stance of the media about? How does this symbolize constraints on girls and women, and encroach on our right to be simply as we are, at any given moment? How can we as individuals in our private lives make adjustments that support us in shedding unconscious actions, internalized beliefs, and fears about our worthiness, that perpetuate such meanness? What can we do as families, as groups of friends? Is what girls and women can do different from what boys and men can do? What does this have to do with how women are treated in the workplace?"

Should you be heading to LA this Summer, be sure to visit the new Herb Ritts: LA Style exhibition which is taking place at the Getty Centre. The legendary 1980s photographer was remembered by Naomi Campbell to The Guardian this week. Ritts may be best know for his stark and sculptural images of supermodels including Campbell, Christy Turlington and Cindy Crawford. I love the image below which captures the nude, intertwined bodies of some of the best know women of the time. 

Stephanie, Cindy, Christy, Tatjana, Naomi, Hollywood from 1989 by Herb Ritts (image from a selection on the Guardian.)

The Great Scrunchie Debate, first ignited when Carrie screwed her nose up at a tourist's choice of ponytail binding in Sex and the City series 6, has been revisited this week with the 'news' that American Secretary of State, Hilary Clinton's aides would like her to keep her to put way her beloved scrunchies. Sartorially speaking, it's probably fair to say that Ms. Clinton probably has more in common with a tourist from Georgia than fashion obsessed Carrie. However, what with the current trend for a 80s/90s street rave look, a scrunchie could be a rather nice addition to the look. Really, it's all in the styling. I like the experiments of the girls from Elle- scrunchies are not so bad as Clinton's colleagues might make out, but perhaps not teamed with Carolina Herrera trouser suits in the same colour. 

Hilary Clinton works the scrunchie (image from www.politico.com)

Scrunchies for now- image from www.sweetandsound.co.uk

Ginnifer Goodwin works the Margot the catwalk way (image from glamour.com)

Coleen rocks the Margot at Aintree (image from daily mail)

Roksanda Ilincic's wonderful Margot dress- in bright fuchsia with bell sleeves- has been tipped to be the dress of this season, having sold out 80 times over (and maybe more) by now at Matches. Cute American actress Ginnifer Goodwin was recently seen it it and the FashEd tells me that a few of her editor friends are also proud owners. Basically, it was all going so well. Until yesterday that it is, when Coleen Rooney rocked up to the first day of Aintree clad in her very own Margot dress. Rather than retaining Ilincic's looser, longer and more chic catwalk styling Coleen had chosen a version which was short and tight. While we love that Coleen is supporting London designers, to our eye she made the Margot into a whole new dress. Of course, this is actually proof that it IS the dress of the season, but thankfully, when it fits right the look is so different it might as well be another garment. Will some cool girl please come and revive Margot's reputation?

Finally video of the week goes to Gia Coppola's (niece of Sophia) short and kooky and lovely film to mark the collaboration between DVF and Current Elliott. It's called Writer's Block and tells the story of a young and beautiful screen writer and her, er, writer's block. The music, by Robert Schwartzman, another relative, gives it a kind of 60s horror film drama. And the clothes are lovely too, modelled throughout by the film's star Tracy Antonopolous. It's definitely a refreshing take on the DVF brand.

THE WEEK IN FASHION: MARCH 26th-30th

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

It's been a beautiful, sunny week here in London. Before we hop off for hopefully more of the same (perhaps optimistically), here's our round-up of what's been happening in the world of fashion.

Stefano Pilati is mostly going on holiday in the near future, he said earlier this week (image from www.silverliningopticians.com)

A month after his swift departure from YSL, Stefano Pilati has spoken out about his future plans and career to date. He appeared at La Musee de la Mode et du Textile this week as part of their "Fashion Talks" series. Pilati spoke about his 'dramatic, tragical' start at YSL under Tom Ford. The end of Pilati's tenure was announced just days before the AW12 show. As had earlier been predicted, Hedi Slimane has come back to YSL as his replacement. With no apparent job lined up, it would be understandable if Pilati were reticent about discussing the future, but he had this to say: “I am really happy, which is something very unusual for me in a sense that I never believed that it could have been possible to feel happy, at least under these kinds of circumstances". 

Jospeh Altuzarra has collaborated on  collection with J.Crew- cannot wait (image from www.forbes.com)

I could barely contain my excitement earlier this week when I spied on Twitter that CFDA/ Vogue Fashion Fund winner Jospeh Altuzarra had collaborated with J.Crew. It seemed like one of those fashion rumours which maybe a little too good to be true. But then I went to the press day of Altuzarra's UK PR who confirmed that it was indeed true. Altuzarra apparently said "So we worked on collaboration which I think will be coming out in a few weeks". Now I just need to find a way to magic myself to the US or pray hard that the pieces will be available to ship to the UK. 

A look from Altuzarra AW12 which was inspired by Italian comic Corto Maltese

Claudia Schiffer's Guess ads in the late 80s are some of the most iconic from the time. They sum up the look of the moment pretty accurately. To celebrate the Guess's 30th anniversary, Schiffer has returned to become the face of the brand, recreating the images with a slightly rockier vibe. The campaign has been shot by one of Guess's original ad photographers Elle von Unwerth. Schiffer models looks from the capsule collection which has been produced to celebrate the milestone. Somehow, Claudia hasn't changed too much at all in the 23 years since the original ads.

Claudia Schiffer in a Guess ad from 1989 (image from www.fashionologie.com)

And 23 years later, celebrating 30 years of Guess jeans (www.fashionologie.com)

Another of the 80s SUPERmodels is back on our radar this week. Christy Turlington is on the cover of Tatler's May issue and wears an excellent straw boater and painted on moustache, working a kind of 30s riviera photographer look. We love.

Christy on the Tatler cover (image from www.dailymail.co.uk)

What with her constant work outs and healthy eating regimes, Gwyneth Paltrow is probably one of the last people you might think of to take up the role of Dora Maar- the woman Pablo Picasso famously painted in a particularly unflattering, if abstract, way...

Dora Maar by Pablo Picasso, 1939 (from www.coloradomagazine.blogspot.com)

However, it was announced this week that Gwyneth will be playing Dora in  a new film about one of Picasso's most famous paintings Guernica. And when you see how Dora looked in real life, the Gwyneth choice makes more sense.

The real Dora Maar (image from www.croatia.org)

Rihanna was the subject of much consternation last week when she explained that she gets more body confident, the more naked she gets. "What do you know?" was the general response. Victoria Beckham has taken RiRi's "What body image planet are you on?" crown by claiming that when she tests out her designs, she says "I’m going to put it on. I stand for the general public here". As if to rub salt into the wound further, the feature in Harper's Bazaar is accompanied by a series of shots of VB in 50s style swimwear. We sort of love that she still thinks she can pull herself off as  a member of the general public. See you in Sainsburys Victoria!

VB just hanging out, being a member of the general public (images from www.dailymail.co.uk)

Who knows how she did it, but Vogue editor Alexandra Shulman has written her first novel entitled Can We Still Be Friends? It will be released on April 12th and was launched this week with a party at Sothebys. The Vogue website published Shulman's great account of how she found time to write and what the book is about. I can't wait to read it.

Alex Shulman with Samantha Cameron at the book launch on Wednesday night (image from www.vogue.com)

A slightly mysterious announcement this week from H&M who say they will be launching 'a completely new store chain' next year. The new chain will apparently will modelled on Cos which is also owned by the Hennes group. Karl-Johan Persson, H&M's CEO told WWD 'Like COS, which today is very successful with good profitability, the new chain of stores will be independent and complement the other offerings from the group'. We look forward to seeing what they come up with.

Finally, video of the week goes to ASOS who have created this short film as part of their collaboration with designer of super chic sportswear, Ebru Ercon on the SS12 REVIVE collection. The video sums up perfectly the 90s rave with a modern sportswear twist  which is the ethos of the collection. Given that Ercon used to be Head Designer on Stella McCartney for Adidas, it's not surprising that she's nailed the Summer's sportswear trend. The video was styled by the very cool stylist and blogger, Madeleine Ostile and used the music videos of dance acts like Yazz and Inner City as starting points. The collection isn't available to buy until 23rd April, but you can have a sneek peek here

In the mean time, happy weekend!

STEFANO PILATI OUT AT YSL, HEDI SLIMANE OR RAF SIMONS IN?

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

Hedi  (via: wwd)

Suzy Menkes has acted like she has known for months; and finally it has been made official by the house: Stefano Pilati is leaving Yves Saint Laurent. His contract is up in one month, and the suits at Pinault-Printemps-Redoute have not renewed his contract. Though on a positive note, his Paris show next week (March 5th) will be his swansong; cue sobs and weeping from the fashion press and an outpouring of emotion similar to the scenes at Jil Sander this weekend. I will also expect a highly collectible collection. 

So why is Stefano out? The informed thinking in Paris is that the PPR bosses didn't think his work was up there in the brilliance stakes, and his collections occasionally seemed very laboured; anyone remember that disastrous scene in The September Issue? They also allegedly didn't like the way Stefano conducted himself socially, with a general implication that he was back to his old ways (he has been open about his drink and drug habits in the past, like in this interview with Vice). Or perhaps after eight years as Creative Director of Yves Saint Laurent, and with founder of the house Mr Saint Laurent long since dead, it is simply time for fresh energy to inject new life into the reputation of the house, which in turn will boost sales.

Commenting on the announcement, Yves Saint Laurent Chief Executive Officer Paul Deneve said 'We are all at Yves Saint Laurent grateful to Stefano for his important achievements in advancing the mission and success of this historic and treasured fashion house.' 

Kate and Stefano Pilati (via Fashionista) 

It is expected that one of two men will take up the post at Yves Saint Laurent. The favoured contender has long been Hedi Slimane the highly creative designer, photographer and art director who ran YSL menswear with a very specific vision from 2001 to 2007. He is in line to oversee the entire creative side of Yves Saint Laurent, an opportunity he hinted he has been waiting for. 

Raf Simons sheds a tear as he takes to the runway for his second encore at his last Jil Sander show at the weekend 

Also now in the frame is 44 year old Belgian modernist Raf Simons who is leaving Jil Sander this week following news that Jil Sander herself is to return to the label. Rumour has it he was fired because industry gossip about him leaving for Dior had gone into overdrive, and Simons in fact has no job to go to. Whatever the truth of the matter, the fashion industry seems mired in the thought that Mr Simons is headed to Christian Dior. But though it is an outside possibility, just how PERFECT would the art and architecture minded designer be for the house of Yves Saint Laurent? Personally, I would camp out to be among the first to own a Raf Simons for Yves Saint Laurent piece. I don't think I would feel the same about a Raf Simons for Dior item; and I'm sure I'm not alone in this.  

What Stefano does next will also be something the fashion world will wait for with interest. Stefano is a totally lovely and talented man, and I am sure he can emerge with his head held high from all of this.   

THE WEEK IN FASHION 13TH JUNE-17TH JUNE

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large
Additional research by Bethan Holt

Here's our weekly round up of the goings on in fash-land over the past five days. While most of the fashion press have been obsessing over the resort collections (more on those to come!) these were the news stories that caught our eye this week.We kick off, fittingly, with a quote from the High Priestess herself...

1. Famously anti-tech Anna Wintour gave the perfect five word acceptance speech for Vogue's People's Voice Award at the Webbys: "Sometimes geeks can be chic." Got it in five, Anna - and come on, like we didn't know that already!


2. The fashion hackers have struck again, and it's Beyonce (in kinky Vuitton) vs. Christina  Aguilera (in, well, not a lot) on the leaked covers of this month's W magazine

 3. Alexandra Shulman stepped into the ring for the racism in fashion debate, following the recent racism related lawsuits involving Naomi Campbell and Cadbury and Rihanna and Gucci. In response to Liz Jones' claim that the industry is 'inherently racist', Shulman pointed out: "There have always been black players on the scene — at the moment look at the stylist Edward Enninful, make-up artist Pat McGrath and [models] Jourdan Dunn, Liya Kebede and Joan Smalls, who are at the top of the tree."The Vogue Editor also hinted that she has two black cover stars lined up for future issues - Michelle O, perhaps?

4. It has been a week for campaign releases, as Tom Ford poses with Lara Stone in his new make up shots
...

 

Lara and Tom try to out 'good face' each other in the Tom Ford makeup campaign

5. ...while Angelina Jolie poses in Cambodia (birthplace of her son, Maddox) for Vuitton 's core values campaign

6. Jess Cartner-Morley declares this the summer of intentional bad taste fashion, all thanks to a Prada banana

Prada SS11, and the banana skirt that started it all...

7. Aggy is back in the business! Everyone's favourite leggy blonde Agyness Deyn has re-signed with her old agency, Select Model Management, and is hoping to stage a comeback. Shouldn't be too tricky when you look like this...

Aggy shot by Tim Walker for the May issue of Vogue. Beautiful!

8. What  has Stefano Pilati been up to while his mate Kate was on her hen weekend on the Isle of Wight? Designing costumes for a new Harold Pinter production, of course! With Kristen Scott Thomas taking the lead in The Betrayal, this will be one dramatic fashion statement.

9. You thought the V&A Vivienne Westwood exhibition had covered it all? Well, now her iconic shoe designs have an exhibition all of their own

 The Gillie shoe, most notorious for bring Naomi down to earth with a bump!

10. Mulberry have had a very, very good year, reporting a 69% increase in revenue.Those cute woodland creatures from their last show are obviously hiding some savvy business sense..

 Mulberry Resort 2012. They don't just do handbags, y'know. It's all about the doggy RTW.

11. A very dapper Jonathan Saunders deservedly picked up Designer of the Year at the Scottish Fashion Awards - even though the win took him by surprise, having just been "texting Chris Kane saying 'Sam Cam's wearing your dress, you're definitely going to win it!'"

 Designer of the Year Jonathan Saunders picks up his SFA in a trendy teal tie.

11. Following the news that K-Mid's wedding dress is going to go on show at Buckingham Palace, across the pond, the Rock n Roll Hall of Fame have included Gaga's infamous Meat Dress in their 'Women who Rock' exhibit. Thankfully, the meat has been preserved so that the now well-past-it's-sell-by-date flesh dress won't pong out the exhibition! Tasty.

 

12. Stella Tennant presented the Devonshire Cup at Royal Ascot (she's related to the historic English family). On Ladies Day she was sporting a brilliant trilby avec taxidermy birds, designed, of course, by Stephen Jones. Only Stella and Stephen could make dead birds look this good! 

Stella Tennant and Stephen Jones during the design process for Ascot's chic-est headgear. Photographed by Robert Fairer

13. And finally, over the past five days we have continued to be baffled and bewildered by Bip Ling's blog posts and Tweets. A choice example from @BipLing:

"YUPP having a great holidayyyyyyyy SHUVS AND FOREST ARE GREAT FUN YAR YAR YARRR LOVE ITTTT :-) BOOM BOOOM xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx"

What?! Does anyone speak Bip and can help us out?!

And that, fashion fans, is the week that was...

Images: Catwalking, Vogue UK, Style.com, Rock and Roll Hall of Fame, US Vogue.

THIS WEEK IN FASHION 30 MAY- 3 JUNE

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large assisted by Bethan Holt.

Every Friday I'm going to share a digest of the fashiony stories and happennings that caught my attention during the week.  This week an historic appointment at the New York Times, big girls on the cover of Italian Vogue, Freja and Carine for Chanel and a revealing out-take from my Haider Ackermann interview for POP from last Spring... Oh and what has the International Herald Tribune writer Ruth La Ferla got against Marc Jacobs?
1. Vogue Italia uses THREE plus-size models on front cover....

Tara Lynn, Candice Huffine and Robyn Lawley


2. Tom Ford makes a documentary... And tells the story of Yves Saint Laurent's reaction to his collection for the label...(via the Huffingtonpost)

"When I started to get great press and business [at YSL] started to become successful, Yves became really quite hostile," recalled Ford, "and we had a little bit different taste. I have letters that he wrote to me about it, you know: 'In 13 minutes on the runway you have destroyed 40 years of my career.'"

3. Speaking of YSL, Pilati's Resort 2012 collection revives this delicious print from 1971. Divine...



The Poppy Print revived for 2011/12

4. The New York Times appoints its first ever female editor...   Jill Abramson, I salute you and look forward to your New York Times.

Jill Abramson is applauded by her new her team. I love this picture

5. Karl Lagerfeld wins Gordon Park Foundation creativity award and discusses the leaked pictures of his collaboration with Carine Roitfeld... Sexy!

Freja Beha Erichsen stars in the campaign, styled by Carine Roitfeld

The setting... A photo booth!

Chanel branches into masks?

6. Fascinating " interview " in the International Herald Tribune by Ruth La Ferla with Marc Jacobs ahead of his Lifetime Achievement Award at CFDAs on Monday...

Marc in  make-up from Francois Nars portrait book.

While Marc is smarting that his should be "a half-life time achievement award" there seems to be a darker force at work in her piece. In it La Ferla seems to be suggesting that Marc Jacobs has lost it. She alludes to store buyers from Bloomingdale's, Barneys New York and Nordstrom who "declined to comment on the designer's performance". She also quotes a blogger who says that overall the message of his clothes is "pretty banal". She also spoke to stylist Ms Tracy L Cox who works for SJP among others. Cox tells La Ferla that Marc's "clothes don't neccessarily translate on the red carpet." The pull quote of the article, published today, says "In a survey in 2009, his label was ranked 11th in perceived value and prestige. It plummeted to 25th last year."

7. Haider Ackermann adds even more intrigue to Dior rumours according to the LA Times...
"No announcement has come yet, but Ackermann, who is visiting Los Angeles for the first time this week for a special event with Saks Fifth Avenue, hinted that he is ready for a new challenge. "It would excite me," he said over green tea in the garden at the Chateau Marmont. "Sometimes you're drawing a collection, and something doesn't fit. I have more things to say and another house might help me with this."

We shared a glance at a long table of proper-looking ladies Champagne brunching under the porch, with their elegant handbags close at hand.

"I might dream of a woman more elegant and pure," Ackermann said. "Like those women over there?" I asked. He laughed. "Different, but yes."

Could Ackermann rival Galliano's finale outfits?

When I interviewed Ackermann 18 months ago for POP (SS11 edition, read here),  I asked him if - after turning down the job offer to be Creative Director of Maison Martin Margiela - he might consider working for another house in the future. His answer to me was "My tree is too young still. I need to have strong roots for me to be able to divide myself. Step by step. It took me 6.5 years to be standing here and that is good. Lets not rush into things. I don’t want to be at a house just for three years. If I do something I want longevity. I like longevity. I like intimacy." Hmm. So if he takes on a Dior or a Givenchy shaped job he will be doing it for the very long term....

8. Stefano Pilati tells Womens Wear Daily that he is scared of bloggers... oh and on another note I had no idea Kate Moss and Stefano were such great mates....surely with John Galliano in recovery he is a shoo-in to design her wedding gown? Or maybe her dress IS what Galliano is doing in recovery?

Kate and Stefano at the Etam fashion show in January. These two are always hanging out. (image from Zimbio.com)

“I pay attention to all of them and I’m very scared,” Pilati told WWD. “Because who are these people? I would like to sit with them and ask them where they come from. because it’s very easy to judge from your bed. At the same time, I’m fascinated. I’m fascinated by this era and this medium. If people are thirsty about fashion, I like to have a dialogue, but now it’s not a two-way dialogue: it’s a one-way dialogue.”

9. Can't wait to read American Vogue European Editor-at-Large Hamish Bowles' autobiography... (via avenueinsider.com)

Bowles looking dapper in McQueen

10. Gisele is gearing up to be the first supermodel to become a US Dollar  billionaire... according to Forbes magazine Gisele Bundchen, 30, the model from Horizontina in Southern Brazil is a money machine. Last year alone she sold 250 million flip-flops in Brazil earning her in the region of £150 million, thats before we look at her beauty business (currently for sale), her growing property portfolio and various other product deals.

by Mario Testino

11. ASOS announces massive profits... crazy to think that in ten years ASOS has gone from being worth £12.3 million (October 2001) to £1.6 billion (June 2011) (Source: Ft.com.)

12. Erdem (who looked as dapper as ever at last nights Royal College of Art fashion show) has produced a stunning resort collection for 2012 inspired by Hitchcock and Romy Schneider... I would wear this look in a heartbeat.

Erdem continues to work with lace and beautiful prints in this new offering

13. Alexa Chung unveils yet another fashion collaboration... am I alone in thinking Alexa has got her fingers in one too many fashion pies?

14. Alistair Guy's new portraits of some of fashion's most influential people includes this one by one of my best friends, Yasmin Sewell. She look beautiful, as always.

Yasmin Sewell

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/
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http://www.fashionologie.com/
http://www.guardian.co.uk/
http://www.nymag.com/
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http://www.fashionista.com/
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