Fred Butler is a clever girl- she's created a niche for herself amongst the plethora of designers competing for attention over the fashion week schedule. On Monday afternoon, Fred presented her latest collection of out-there shoes and accessories. Although she mostly works on commissions for editorials and shoots, Lady Gaga being a recent client, Fred uses the LFW platform to show the potential of her creations. For AW12, that's sushi. Yes, that's correct, the Japanese rolls of raw fish, vegetables and rice. Add to that obi belts and kimonos and you'll see that Japan is a major theme here; that's not surprising given the that Butler's aesthetic probably has most appeal for cool kids who are already massively influenced by Japan.
Lady Gaga wears Fred Butler headpiece in the Telephone video (from guardian.co.uk)
The collection is called 'Tank Top-Ranking Tongue Tied and Twisted'. The name gives some indication of all the knots and plaits which Fred has incorporated into that sushi theme so that end result is a collection of origami-like 3D creations in the sweetest of colours which make the wearer look like they may have walked straight off the set of a souped up fashion version of Star Trek.
A high collar gilet
This harness which looked like a string of marshmallows was my favourite
This presentation wasn't just about the amazing pieces on show. Butler has teamed up with singer Charli XCX, together they have worked on a track which accompanies the collection and which Charli performed during the presentation. Red Bull brought the two together as part of their Catwalk Studio project which brings together young musicians and designers. Charli explained that Fred had already began working on the Japanese theme when they met so she used Taiko drum sounds as the starting point for the track. The pair spent plenty of studio time together which means that the whole project is a true collaboration as well as being an exciting way to do a fashion show, after all fashion doesn't exist in a vacuum but is created from all manner of cultural references.
Fred Butler and Charli XCX (image from red bull.co.uk)
I loved that there was nothing literal about this presentation. The song was catchy and the accessories certainly didn't immediately bring to mind a tray of sushi- thank goodness!
Any pop stars/ performers/ lovers of exuberant costume reading, take note, Fred Butler should be on your wardrobe radar!
There's a thing called the #lfwtimeline. If you have a look at this hashtag on twitter you'll see that it tells you how late (or not) a show is running. We've worked out that this timeline is perhaps not the most reliable of sources- its default setting for each show is "the XXX show is running 10 minutes late' even though sometimes it is 15 mins and others it's 30 mins. Anyway, when you do manage to be punctual, there's almost always some cool music playing and setting the tone for what you're about to see. And once the show begins, the music has a massive impact on how you start to interpret the collection.
Here are a few of our favourite songs from the week...
Azealia Banks hasn't even released a single yet but that hasn't stopped her becoming a YouTube hit, as well as being enlisted to perform for Karl Lagerfeld. She also appeared at last night's Topshop party, celebrating ten years of NewGen. Her 212 song was heard all week, including at House of Holland, Mulberry and Topshop Unique.
One of the Fashed's favourite tunes at the moment is 'I'm His Girl' by Friends. We heard it at Emilio de la Morena and Felder Felder among others.
In terms of music, last LFW was rather overshadowed by a certain Lana del Rey and her (then) fresh new voice in 'Video Games'. We still heard this song a few times over this season including at Aquascutum. Oh, and in case you hadn't heard by now (where have you been?) then Mulberry have named their new bag, the Del Rey, after the former Lizzie Grant. Plus she rocked up at their show, but we didn't need to tell you that did we?
Meadham Kirchhoff were bound to deliver on the music front, given their obsession with teen girl tunes. Their show closed with Abba's Dancing Queen.
The new Muppets movie is out now. What with Miss Piggy guest editing Grazia, it's hardly surprising it was on the mind of designers. Mulberry closed their show the Ma Na Ma Na song.
Hanna Hanra took charge of the music at Louise Gray. before the show began, she played some Whitney. The show was all about 90s house music, including Work It Girlfriend by Jack and Jill.
Pringle's show took place to the sound of INXS 'Need You Tonight'...
And finally, Marios Schwab's entire show was based on Mahler's Adagietto from Symphony no. 5.
Fashion weeks come and go, but we will always have Chanel. Harrods are reminding us of that irrefutable fact this month with their Chanel pop-up shop and promenade experience. Unfortunately, there are just a few days left of the collaboration but if you are in need of some Chanel soothing then Harrods must be your first port of call.
Mlle. Chanel (Image from greciavalgon.blogspot.com)
Images courtesy of Chanel
The FashEd and I have recently been absorbed by Justine Picardie's incredible biography 'Coco Chanel: The Legend and the Life'. And so Chanel seems to have been in the background throughout fashion week, when we were focused on London talent and new trends. In the back of my mind, there was still a little black dress, a matelot striped top and a string of pearls. I knew that any day these could be pulled out as wardrobe failsafes and look just as chic now as they would have done any time in the past 60 or 70 years- that is the power of Chanel. So, it is apt that London's greatest fashion destination play host to the Chanel homage which, I'm pleased to report, has been formulated through close collaboration with Karl Lagerfeld's studio team.
On the ground floor, 23 windows have been taken over to showcase the AW11 collection. Then inside is an ephemeral boutique- I love the frenchified phrase they have chosen for what is effectively a pop-up shop.
The classic Harrods bag has had a Chanel makeover, and can be yours for £1,830
There is also a beauty area which features supersized bottles of Chanel No.5, Chance and Mademoiselle (all of which, apart from Chance, are available for sale). Picardie dispells all myths which swirl around the significance of the choice of number for the first of Chanel's many perfumes: 'Mademoiselle Chanel replied, 'I'm presenting my dress collection on the 5th of May, the fifth month of the year; let's the leave the name No. 5' This number would bring her luck'. Here Picardie is quoting Ernest Beaux who had been commissioned by Chanel to create a perfume to add an extra element to her growing fashion house which had begun just with hats. It was the fifth in the series of scents he created which she chose. And thus the number became a lucky charm for Mademoiselle. Picardie herself speaks about just how much No.5 permeated Chanel's entire existence in the video below.
And then to Harrod's third floor where a space of 350 square metres has been dedicated to taking customers through a subliminal Chanel experience which transports one between a miniature recreation of the set of the AW11 show, a film sequence showing the making a 2.55 bag and Karl's library, amongst others. The promenade experience offers complete immersion in the Chanel brand, its history and many facets.
Chanel clad bears take refusge in a mini recreation of Rue Cambon
Chanel dolls
Chanel's legendary mirrored Rue Cambon salon is recreated complete with mannequins in Chanel Couture.
Oh to open one of these boxes for oneself...
A complete treat- the chance to look at pieces of vintage Chanel couture in close-up....
Many of Chanel's most enduring items were not created until she reached her 70s. Picardie quotes Life magazine: 'At 71, Gabrielle Chanel is creating more than fashion: a revolution'. The 2.55 bag, supersized below, is a case in point. Chanel took the lessons she had learnt from previous bags she had created and wove into this key signifiers of her past 'the quilted leather was said to be an indication of her love of riding as a young woman, dating back to a time when quilted material was worn only by stable-lads'. Chanel was a magnifent rider and fisherwoman, but you must read the book to find out more! Picardie continues, 'the chain that served as a shoulder strap was just as evocative:golden metal plaited with a leather cord, suggestive of horse bridles and harnesses, and also perhaps of the belts worn by the Catholic nuns who had educated her as a child'. But on top of this, Chanel simply had an inkling that 'women love chains'. An inkling which has proved an unbelievable money spinner and cultural landmark for Chanel, France and fashion ever since.
Karl in his bibliotheque
A giant bottle of Chanel No.5 houses a screen which shows the ad starring Audrey Tatou....
So I cannot recommend enough a visit to Harrods to soak up the final days of the promenade, followed by immersing yourself in Picardie's epic, entertaining and brilliant account of Chanel's life.
N.B All quotes taken from Picardie's biography of Chanel. Images, unless otherwise indicated, Fashion Junior at Large.
