MY OPENING CEREMONY LET-DOWN

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

Exterior of Opening Ceremony NYC/Howard Street

While in New York the number one store on my must-visit agenda was Opening Ceremony.  I've long been an admirer of the stores philosophy to promote emerging American talent, the collaborations it does with American brands such as Pendletons as well as Robert Clergerie for shoes and even Hakaan for one dress. I especially like the way it offers a creative retail platform to designer/retailers from key global fashion cities. Chloe Sevigny's collection is gorgeous too.  Humberto Leon the owner/co-founder plays an active part in the NYC fashion scene and is someone I have a lot of time and respect for. 

Here's the BUT, though. (You knew that was coming, didn't you?) For all my enjoyment of its website - window shopping, reading the blog, the great Fashion's Night Out video interview with Anna Wintour - when I actually got to the shop itself, the experience was a huge disappointment.

Without meaning to sound like a princess, I expected a lot more from the stock and store environment. It just does not match the reputation. There was also a certain arrogance to the prices. The first price tag I saw upon walking in was a pair of cream silk crochet ankle socks that were more thin air than sock. Imagine large scale fishnet tights to get the picture. They were by Rodarte - American!! so no duty extras - and costs over $400.

ARE THEY JOKING??? I've interviewed the Rodarte girls and know why their work is special  (though who would pay $400 + bucks for socks from them?). But most people - like those I was with in New York - took one look at the socks draped over a bar, saw the price tag, laughed and promptly left the shop to sit outside, leaving me agitated.

When you make grand claims about your fashion philosophy online, and have a stellar media reputation it really matters that your bricks and mortar shop rewards those who have made the effort to get there.

Hakaan collaboration with Opening Ceremony

 MY GRIPES

1. The connoisseur knowledge the business claims to have is not evident in the shop in the way it is online. The space is not curated, the rails are as packed as a thrift store that does not know how to merchandise. How am I supposed to know where things are, and why they are special if they are crammed on a rail?

2. If you are going to charge those premium prices, give me the background to the pieces. Give me the story. Give me the staff who are not just standing there posing.

3. Think Dover Street Market, not flea market.

I still love you though. And these.

Pendleton's meets Opening Ceremony.

http://www.openingceremony.us/

NEW YORK, JUST LIKE I PICTURED IT!

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

The corner of Howard and Broadway in Soho

I'm in New York for a break to visit friends and catch up on fashion and retail developments at my leisure, rather than in the rush of a here-on-business schedule. In all the years I have been coming here (since 1998) I have never done proper touristy things, just hung out and had fun with my many friends who live and work here. 

We're staying with my ex-girlfriend Sonja Nuttall who is the creative director of the Urban Zen Foundation. Sonja works closely with Donna Karan, and has just returned from Haiti with DK where she oversaw delivery of 70,000 tents and equipment to help rehouse the many homeless on Haiti. In the last year she and Donna have raised $1.3 million to help Haiti. Hearing her stories are humbling. I love the way she took her successful career as a fashion designer into an area of social responsibility.

Sonja & Donna

WHAT WE'VE BEEN UP TO:

First impressions of New York is that the fire is not in the belly of this city like it used to be. It feels like the buzz has moved off the island to Brooklyn. All the major stores on Manhattan are just as you would expect: glossy, grand and, ultimately full of very safe stock. It is very conservative here. It is also verrry expensive. I paid £150 for a brunch for four people and nearly fell off my chair with shock when the bill came. In previous years the same price in $$ would have been £90; still expensive for what we bought.
Stores like Scoop sell designer versions of casual, everyday clothes I would pick up in COS, or TopShop. The service is in another league, as one would expect in NYC. Unlike at home in UK where most shop staff feel like they are employed as glorified shelf fillers, and act as such, here shop staff seem genuinely happy to serve and help.  

We've been here a since Sunday, so far we have...

1. Had an amazing but pricy brunch at Pastis
2. Eaten a Japanese feast at Omen
3. Had the best slap-up lunch ever at ABC Kitchen.
3. Walked and walked and walked....and looked and looked around at this sort of stuff

NYC street art

The corridor window outside the store Kiosk that we stumbled on in Spring Street, Soho

The doorway and sidewalk sign pointing the way to Kiosk

4. Visited Opening Ceremony - the only store I have visited so far (and I've done all of Soho, and Fifth Avenue departments stores Bergdof, Saks, Bendels) that had truly original product on offer. Will be doing a more detailed post in couple of days on my store experience there.
5. Discovered Kiosk (see shots above), what feels like a guerilla store, but one that is somewhat established. Every item is displayed museum style with a card describing it's origin and the story of the curators introduction to it. Extremely creative & unique concept, and going there is a thrilling experience ticking all the unexpected discovery boxes you hope for if you're me.
6. Went to the top of the Rockerfeller Centre. Brilliant views of Central Park, Empire State Building and all Manhattan

Today was windless, warm and sunny. We saw a wasp up there! Incredible view of Empire State Building looking south

Fucking around

Looking north to Central Park from the top of 30 Rock

7. Taken a round trip on the Staten Island Ferry to appreciate the views of the Statue of Liberty and Battery Park and the downtown skyline from the water.

Back view of the Staten Island Ferry terminal at Battery Park

Later: High Line, Boom Boom Room, Brooklyn

Photos: Fashion Editor at Large