Showing posts with label elsa schiaparelli. Show all posts
Showing posts with label elsa schiaparelli. Show all posts

INSIDE THE MIND OF MIUCCIA PRADA

Posted by Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large

Miuccia Prada is someone I have respect for as a woman, and as a designer. Mrs Prada has never, not even for a moment, lost her integrity, and seems to put her family and core beliefs about how to live a good, intelligent life before some of the more shallow trappings of success. Prada still lives in the same apartment she raised her two sons in, and at 62, is more interested in evolving as a human being than swishing around being fabulous. I guess the point is, with her rigour, she has no need to put on a front. Her pleasures are internal. As a designer she keeps things interesting by being avant garde, and, well, most designers go off the boil for periods of their career, but not her. Miuccia Prada is never, ever boring.

So it was a rare pleasure on Saturday morning to read an interview with Prada in the Times Magazine by my favourite fashion grande dame Sarah Mower. The interview served to reinforce my thoughts on the woman and renewed my interest in her body of work. Sarah's perceptive piece truly captured the essence of the woman and nailed her approach to work and feelings about success in a warm and moving way that only increased my admiration for both of them. For those who missed the magazine, I've scissored my favourite bits, saves you going through the paywall.

Miuccia Prada (image from landryedux.blogspot.com)

ON BEING "THE EMPRESS OF FASHION"

“I don’t have a sense of it. Thank God!” she laughs. “Otherwise I would not sleep at night. I’ve always obsessed about what I had to do but never looking at myself from the outside. Probably I am highly ambitious – but in the sense that I want to do intelligent things. I want to be good. I never think about the corporation.”


Prada SS12 (image from cat walking.com)
....

ON BEING THE SUBJECT OF THE LATEST MET MUSEUM SHOW

"..I’m curious about what she thinks of being the subject of an exhibition she hasn’t curated. The fashion world is full of control freaks who would have a meltdown at the very thought. But Prada respects the Metropolitan Museum’s independence. “They wanted to analyse the similarities between me and Schiaparelli. I don’t know if there are that many, but anyhow. Neither of us trained as a fashion designer, so we were interested in a wider sense of the world. We both started later in life. But I’m happy that they think she was a fashion revolutionary, and that… er… I am in my time.”

She’s pleased by the scale and importance of the event, clearly, but I don’t think Miuccia Prada gets her satisfaction, or her motivation, from public recognition. What she cares about above anything else is originality. “Some seasons I know what I’m doing, and others I realise as I’m working on the collection. I never know the title of a collection until two days before [a show].”

Elsa and Miuccia (image from Glamazondiaries.com)
                                                                         ....

ON THE "PRADA LOOK"

"But when I ask her to sum it up by answering a dumb-simple question – “What is the Prada look?” – she stops in her tracks. “I don’t have an answer to that,” she says. “It is bad for commerce! But, eh,” she continues, “it is an advantage as well as a disadvantage, because in the end you can change and update. If you fix on one look, and that look goes out of fashion, what do you do?” So that means you just want to lead? She leans forward and practically shouts, “Yes! And that’s since ever!” She said it.


Prada's Bad Taste collection, 1996 (image from styleregistry.livejournal.com)
 ....


ON HER MOTIVATION AS A DESIGNER

Bertelli [her husband] only winkled out her designing ambition when he said they’d have to hire someone else if she refused to do it. As a PhD in political science and an ex-member of the Communist party and active feminist, she was mortified. “I probably had high resistance because of the political situation. It was seriously a nightmare. I was so ashamed,” she sighs. “Obviously, I liked it. But I had serious difficulty finding myself a fashion designer.”
Even when the troubles had died down, the big-shouldered executive suits of Armani and the sexy glitziness of Versace grated on the young feminist’s sensibilities. Her response was to design minimal styles using plain fabrics derived from army, school and maids’ uniforms. “Minimalism was a way of obstructing ideas. I wanted to hide my ideas and my thinking.”

Prada AW09  (image from luxuryblog.org) 
...

ON BEING CLEVER

“I’m happy when I think I do something very clever,” she says as I leave. “It happens once or twice a year, when I feel I’ve done something that makes sense. But actually, I never reflect on what I do, because I’m always busy.” So busy, in fact, that she must be the only female guest who hasn’t planned what to wear to the Met gala – she’ll decide the day before, she says. I don’t know, but I’d like to see her nipping up those museum steps wearing trousers among all those trains."

Prada AW12 (image from catwalking.com)

I'd love to be able to send you to a website full of Prada's latest guipure and gem bombers and swirling car print skirts. Alas, none are to be had on the Internet. However, the Prada site does provide us with jewels, shoes and bags galore...

Go Faster clutch 620E Prada Store
Jewels 1290E Prada Store 

Perfect summer heels 570E Prada Store



THE WEEK IN FASHION 22nd-26th AUGUST

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

As August draws to a gloomy close, we have our usual round-up of the fashion news stories which have caught our eye this week, what better way to kick off the long weekend? Enjoy!

 Queen of the Statement necklace and bug-eyed spectacles, Iris Apfel has already (unsurprisingly) been the subject of a very successful exhibition, 2005's 'Rara Avis (Rare Bird)' at the Met. Now the 90 year-old style maven is to be filmed by Albert Maysles for a documentary.  Maysles seems to have a soft spot for the more eccentric members of New York's high society; he is the filmmaker behind  the 1975 documentary 'Grey Gardens' which charts the reclusive existence of Jackie O's aunt and cousin, Big and Little Edie Beale. While that is a heart wrenching story of dysfunctional relationships and social exclusion, we hope (and know) that Maysles' Apfel film will be more uplifting- how could it not be when it stars our favourite- in her own words- 'geriatric starlet.'



Iris Apfel is not scared of a chunky piece of jewellery (Image from fifka.pinger.pl)
After the incredible success of Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty at The Met in New York, speculation is building about how they can possibly follow it up. How long do they need to wait before doing another fashion exhibition without it just feeling like an anticlimax? Well it seems, that Miuccia Prada and Elsa Schiaparelli might be the answer. Before reading this news story I had never drawn the comparison between the two designers but they are actually a remarkably apt pairing, especially given their talent for making a subversive statement in their collections.
As a P.S to that Savage Beauty reference, don't forget to sign our #bringmcqueenexhibitionhome petition and use the hashtag on Twitter. The FashEd will have an update next week on the impact which the campaign has had. You will want to tune into that!



Schiaparelli in the 1930s. Image from (LisaWallerRogers.blogspot.com)



Miuccia Prada (Image from guestofaguest.com)
It is a truth universally acknowledged that Anna Wintour is the most powerful woman in fashion (isn't it?) but how about in the world? Well, according to Forbes she comes in at no.69, leaving the real superpower positions to the likes of German Chancellor Angela Merkel (no.1) and businesswoman and philanthropist Melinda Gates (no. 6). The world of fashion is still well represented with Gisele in 60th place, Andrea Jung, CEO at Avon, at 64, Diane Von Furstenberg at 91 and  Angela Ahrendts, CEO at Burberry at 58. Given that the fashion industry is one of the biggest employers of women around the world, we're glad to see some of the biggest players included in the power list.



Angela Ahrendts with Christopher Bailey. Under their supervision, Burberry became the first fashion company listed on the FTSE 100 (Image from thisislondon.co.uk)
The King of all collaborations will be unveiled on 22nd September with the Gala Opening of 'Ocean's Kingdom', a ballet composed by Sir Paul McCartney with costumes designed by Stella. Ballet is one of my favourite ways to pass an evening but the prospect of a production with music and costumes from two absolute heroes of their fields, neither of whom have ever forayed into ballet before, promises to be fresh and exciting and a must-see. Hopefully there'll be a big screen showing in London.



Paul with Stella and James on their farm, photographed by Linda McCartney (image from meetmeatmikes.blogspot.com)
Finally, Westfield Stratford City opens on 13th September, just in time for a pre-fashion week spree. Given that the space is in the heart of East London, it seems only right that the area's young talent and creativity is on show. Enter the Studio East panel which includes Roland Mouret and Erin O'Connor. They have chosen up-and-coming artists and designers to contribute to  creating a unique Westfield vibe. One of the winners is Julian J Smith who has designed glamorous uniforms for lucky Westfield staff- no dodgy fleeces or polyester monstrosities for them! Also look out for art installations and renewable energy initiatives from the Studio  East crew.



Julian J Smith's design for Westfield uniforms.