Showing posts with label fashion insider. Show all posts
Showing posts with label fashion insider. Show all posts

FASHED GOES TO THE BFAs

Posted by Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large

The Savoy is surely the most glamorous location in London. Fitting as I've never seen the gathered fashion industry look as glammed up as they did last night. Theres nothing like economic gloom to inspire people into their gladrags. I spent the evening at a table hosted by Topshop with designers Nasir Mazhar, Michael van der Ham, and Mary Katrantzou, Alex Fury of Showstudio.com as well as Kate Phelan, Mary Homer and Sheena Sauvaire from TopShop. I love the images Bethan has gathered below, they sum up the night brilliantly. Hooray for Twitter. Now onto a few observations of the evening.
*Kristen McMenamy (below) was my best dressed of the night. She looked insanely brilliant.
*As Laura Craik of The Times pointed out on Twitter, with their girly slightly cockney accents Kate Moss and Victoria Beckham sound very alike.
*Alexa Chung needs to eat a bit more
*Ed Meadham of Meadham Kirchhoff rocked a pink feather boa, making him the campest designer of the night
*Victoria Beckham is cute when she cries.

Kristen McMenamy (from http://www.graziadaily.co.uk/)
Here's what I wore, taken by Mary in our kitchen. Oh the glamour! I liked it, but I'm not sure I'll be having a Gatsby moment again anytime soon. Its just too retro. I like modern. Still, it worked for the Savoy. The dress is vintage 1930s from Lucy in Disguise, shoes Louboutin, and John at Daniel Hercheson did my hair, he also did Charlotte Dellal's of Charlotte Olympia. Anyway, thats the last you'll see of me for a while!

THE BRITISH FASHION AWARDS.... CANDID CAMERA

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large
I've gathered up some of the pictures which guests were tweeting and tumbling as a bit of change from the night's official pictures.

There also are a few videos from the night's proceedings. If you weren't there then this is surely this is the next best thing?!

Abbey Clancy with Kristen McMenamy(from LOVE magazine's twitter)
Model of the Year, Stella Tennant, with Kristen (from LOVE magazine twitter)

British Style Award winner Alexa Chung, in Christopher Kane (from Net-a-Porter tumblr)

Amber Le Bon in Peter Pilotto *jelz* (from net-a-porter tumblr)

Caroline Sieber's shoes- pretty sure they're Charlotte Olympia (from Net-a-Porter's twitter)

Christopher Kane, winner of the New Establishment Award (and soon to be Uncle to sister and business partner Tammy's new baby) from Net-a-Porter's tumblr
Chris Kane accepts his New Establishment Award....

                                               




Daphne Guinness in Gareth Pugh (from Grazia's twitter feed)
David Gandy chats in the Net-a-Porter lounge (from net-a-porter tumblr)

Kate Moss with Sam Gainsbury, to whom she presented the
 Isabella Blow Fashion Creator award

Kate on stage (from Laura Craik's twitter)
Fashion blondies, Poppy Delevigne and British Fashion Cultural Ambassador,
Laura Bailey (from Laura's twitter)

The 'Loser' table- I can definitely see Paula Reed from Grazia, Jonathan Saunders and
 Kristen McMenamy. Losers indeed! (from LOVE magazine's twitter)

AW, Mary Katrantzou (Emerging Talent winner, yay!) with Alexander Fury from
showstudio.com (@fashedatlarge)
Watch Mary winning...

                                               


Sarah Burton backstage after winning Designer of the Year (Grazia's twitter)

Sarah accepts her award as Sam Cam looks on (from @fashedatlarge)

Watch Sarah collecting her award... 
                                               

Stella looks on as her mate Kate poses (Grazia's twitter)
Stella and Kate (BritFashAwards twitter)
Watch Stella getting her award...
                                               


You can watch all the event highlights here:

                                               

And the winners were:


DESIGNER OF THE YEAR - Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen

DESIGNER BRAND - Victoria Beckham

RED CARPET AWARD - Stella McCartney

ACCESSORY DESIGNER - Charlotte Olympia

MODEL - Stella Tennant

BRITISH STYLE AWARD - Alexa Chung

MENSWEAR DESIGNER - Kim Jones

EMERGING TALENT AWARD - ACCESSORIES - Tabitha Simmons

EMERGING TALENT AWARD - MENSWEAR - Christopher Raeburn

ISABELLA BLOW AWARD FOR FASHION CREATOR - Sam Gainsbury

NEW ESTABLISHMENT AWARD - Christopher Kane

BFC OUTSTANDING ACHIEVEMENT IN FASHION - Paul Smith

GIRL CRUSH: MARY KATRANTZOU

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Today is 'We <3 Mary' day here at FEAL HQ- last night I was lucky enough to meet the fabulous Greek designer herself at an event hosted by My Daily. This morning, the FashEd and I have been singing the praises of her bubbly, all-embracing approach to interacting with her fans, as well as her talent for combining print and shape in ever more visionary ways. Basically, Mary Katrantzou is our new girl crush because she can be a consumately professional design extraordinaire and a really nice person all at the same time! In this spirit, Mary has joined My Daily as a Contributing Editor; alongside her avid tweeting and enthusiasm to build the best possible website this makes her one of the most web savvy, and accessible, young designers out there.

Me, the Fashion Junior, with Mary Katrantzou
 MyDaily editor Libby interviewed Mary last night and they covered everything from Mary's switch from studying Archtitecture in the US to Textile Design in London to the difference between a size 10 Mary dress and a size 14 ('the bigger the lady, the more print she gets'). Mary had plenty of snippets to divulge about how her business will grow in the future. Next June, she is hoping to launch her first pre-collection. She also wants to respond to all the interest men have shown in her designs- her SS12 blazer has been a popular order from the boys- by launching her own men's line in time. Bigger ambitions include a stand alone store in the middle of London, in a space which she can change all the time to suit the prevailing themes of her designs.
This blazer was inspired by simple Helmut Lang shapes from the 90s (image from catwalking.com)
Actually, Mary is a big fan of London. She claims that she would not be in fashion at all if it weren't for the world-renowned MA course at Central Saint Martins; she was tempted to stick to Textile Design but couldn't forego the opportunity to study under the guidance of Professor Louise Wilson whom she says 'gave me the confidence to talk about my work and forced me to develop a signature'. Mary was adamant that she'll be staying in London and showing her work in the young design context of London Fashion Week rather than trying to compete with bigger labels in other cities.
The final look from Mary Katrantzou SS12- The shape of a flower was the silhoutte which underpinned this collection (image from catwalking.com)
After the interview, I asked Mary how she was feeling about the timing clash of London and Milan fashion weeks in February. She acknowledged that it would be difficult but her spin made me think about situation differently. From a buyer's perspective, she suggests, London designers are currently among the most attractive because they pose less risk and can be more flexible than big, well-established labels. In the current economic climate, in which retail is taking quite a bashing, buyers like the fact that they can negotiate more on delivery times and minimum orders with the smaller labels, many of which are based in London. Crucially, their commerciality and growing reputation as exciting designers mean it's not a compromise for customers. Mary was also quick to point out that her designs and those of her peers are frequently being included in big editorial shoots around the world. The Katrantzou show is usually scheduled for the Tuesday of fashion week, by which time 'all the models have left for Gucci' so facing obstacles because of schedule clashes in nothing new for the Katrantzou team to deal with.
Mary Katrantzou AW11, photographed by Sean and Seng for POP


The FashEd interviewed Mary for the current issue of POP- I've included it here and we defy you not to have developed a full blown girl crush by the time you've finished. When I mentioned to Mary that I worked with Melanie, she was full of love for this piece. My Daily is also offering the chance to win a dress from Mary's SS12 collection- and if you're not a lucky winner and budgets don't stretch to the real Mary thing, you only have to hold out until February when her capsule collection for Topshop drops, hurrah!


IT'S ALL ABOUT FASHION ILLUSTRATION

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

Business of Fashion ran a story on Marco Santaniello recently - a t-shirt designing blogger for MaxMara, who creates Rubik's Cube inspired illustrations of fashion industry figures. His pictures are really putting a sunshiny spin on my grey Monday.

BryanBoy

Susie Bubble

Agyness Deyn

Anna Wintour

Become a fan of Marco on Facebook until his website gets up and running. Hmmmm.I wonder if he accepts commissions?

After going on about this or that fashion illustrator over the past few months I've finally decided to try it myself. I'm sure you've heard by now that the wonderful Sketchbook Magazine are throwing open the doors of their pop-up shop for a launch party tomorrow evening. Expect a multitude of talks and workshops from 31st - 19th April all held at number 10 Newburgh Street (W1). I've signed up for several events including a fashion illustration workshop taught by Gabriela Mot this Saturday at 12pm. Can't wait!

New issue of Sketchbook Mag

Click here for a list of all the goings on at the Sketchbook pop-up shop over the next few weeks, and be sure to reserve your place by emailing the team at rsvp@sketchbookmagazine.com. 

Pic credits: Marco Santaniello courtesy of businessoffashion.com

CAN A CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN FLAT BE AS DESIRABLE AS A 9 INCH HEEL?

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

Inside an unremarkable building in east London resides the Christian Louboutin press office. But as soon as you step through the door you notice red carpeted stairs. It's all looking a bit plusher. More like what you might expect from Louboutin.

It's the foot-wear label of most people's dreams, and when you picture a Louboutin shoe you probably picture a spindly sky-scraper heel don't you? I do. Or at least I did until I set eyes on the designer's AW10 collection and realised how much more he has to offer. 

The new look Louboutin heel

My favourite - thicker heel in electric blue

The Strictly Come Dancing shoe...Or is it Dancing On Ice? I don't know but you get the idea.

The unfathomably expensive shoe (each crystal / stud is attached by hand. Does that justify a price tag which is pushing £2000?)

 The trainers I might actually be able to work. (FYI they have the Louboutin trademark red sole)

The velvet lace-up - proving Christian Louboutin can make a flat as desirable as a 9 inch heel.

Right now on Fashionair.com you can watch a video of the man himself tap dancing. We LOVE Fashionair, and 'Dancer in a Daydream' might just be their best video yet. Click through for 5 minutes of pure joy!

MANOLO BLAHNIK AT LARGE IN LIBERTY!

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

I wanted a shot of Manolo and his niece Kristina, but the great man insisted I join the photo. Who was I to say no?
Photograph by Jenny Dyson

A fun morning for a Friday. After a visit to Spanish designer Emilio de la Morena to learn more about him and his work, (will post later) I popped along to Liberty to see Manolo Blahnik who was presiding over The Heritage Suite of the building with his Autumn/Winter range. Normally we would view his new collections at his store on Old Church Street. Today we were invited to Liberty.

What was going on?

"There is a reason we are here", confided a wonderfully chic, aristocratically tall young woman who turned out to be Kristina Blahnik, the daughter of Manolo's sister Evangeline. Another Blahnik! Who knew? This can only be a fabulous thing, as anyone who knows Manolo can testify.

Turns out Geoffroy de la Bourdonnaye the charming CEO of Liberty came up to Manolo at Claridges last October to pay homage to the great shoe designer and they ended up talking shop. After a pot of English tea, it was decided - Manolo Blahnik was to open a pop-up shop in Liberty during London Fashion Week this coming September. Next thing Ed Burstell, the fashion director of Liberty got involved, and before anyone knew it Manolo Blahnik's pop-up shop was staying not a week as initially planned, but for a three and a half month run until Christmas!

Cue an explosion of creativity from Mr Blahnik who is only just recovering from a fall in snow and ice outside his Chelsea store in December. Manolo has (so far) designed three new Liberty prints. He has, he tells me, long been a fan of the Liberty print, they have been used in many a shoe interior. Manolo is also creating special products for the store, and his new collection includes several exclusive colourways, styles and fabrications that will be available only at Liberty. I have never seen Ed Burstell so excited about a collaboration. He was hopping from foot to foot with excitement when he came to view the range.

Ed Burstell with one of his favourite Manolo exclusives. "This is a shoe with two looks," said Kristina Blahnik "it's an elegant high heel and a fashion high heel." The extra piece is a Blahnik version of the shin protection worn by Polo players.

"There will be scarves, cushions, hats, notebooks, Christmas cards, shoes..." says Ed.
"I'm in trauma!" said Manolo to that, waving his hand (the one with the broken middle-finger) around in a mock one-fingered salute. "I am such an obsessive perfectionist. I will be sick with neuroses by September!"

Clearly, Manolo is loving EVERY minute of this. It shows in the collection too, which I was shown through by Kristina Blahnik, who is an architect; "I still have my own practise," she says, "however my focus is now to work with my Uncle. Structure and proportion is my thing.  Liberty is amazing again too, no?" I agree.

At this point Manolo spots a smidge of fluff on the Afghani rug and instructs someone/anyone to "get rid of it!" Luckily, the offending fluff is swiftly removed and everyone present finds this funny. So now onto my high-points of the new collection.

Most important to note is the new last. Manolo has crated a new shoe/heel shape. It is beautiful.


 
Sorry for the quality! The new curvy last is shown in  full angular explosion in Manolo's illustration in the background, but these are the real life shoes created using pleated suede in place of elastic.
The "Yeti" group. First created by Manolo for Marni a decade ago, and back by popular demand. On the right is the "Isidora" with a 5cm kitten heel. In the centre the "Tasava" 10cm high heel. In black on the left is the flat "Turisa" boot. Put them with what Karl did for Chanel, and we've nearly got a trend.  
Manolo can do elegant fashiony kitten heels better than anyone. 
 Must learn my camera settings more thoroughly. The building across the road is in focus, not the shoe. *mortified*
 


The Manolo take on Timberlands above this shot. This shot, the "Carrie" flats worn by SJP's Carrie when she married Big in SATC. I love them; they would make any girl feel like a princess.  Also the high heel versions behind. Check out the illustration of the pinks! Also the 1940s model Dovima (see the postcard photograph of her mid-shot) is the inspiration for this group of shoes.  

"I designed all this with fantasy in my mind," said Manolo. "You've got to keep the poetry alive. I don't want to lose the poetry."


Bad photography by FEAL.

FASHION JUNIOR'S TOP SHOWS

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

On Monday the Fashion Editor at Large asked me to post my five favourite shows from Paris and my five favourite shows from AW10 as a whole. It's taken me until now to make up my mind! It wasn't an especially cohesive season - a lot is changing in fashion and it's given us all food for thought.

Note: I didn't want to repeat what we've already covered on the blog so I have excluded the obvious - Pilotto, Burberry, Celine. I also didn't want the two lists to overlap, so nothing from Paris is on my favourites list. Maybe now it's clear why this took almost three days to compile!

BEST OF PARIS

(From top left)
1) Alexander McQueen's beautiful interpretation of the Dark Ages
2) Alber Elbaz's ladylike outerwear at Lanvin
3) Stella McCartney's slick minimalism
4) Richard Nicoll's matchy-matchy extremism at Cerruti
5) Roland Mouret's draping and experimental hoods

BEST OF AW10


(From top left)
1) Derek Lam's urban cowgirls
2) Christopher Kane shows us lux youth Versace style at Versus
3) Reed Krakoff's minimal utility with plenty of slouch
4) Massimiliano Giornetti's manish tailoring at Salvatore Ferragamo
5) Belle Sauvage gives us print's last hurrah

Which were your favourites?

DOES VANITY KILL?

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

Don't worry, my narcissism will stop today, following this. However, the fashion junior at large urged me to show you the beauty shoot I appeared in within the pages of this weeks British Grazia. Sadly, the issue goes off-sale today in time for the new issue tomorrow. However my mother assures me all the aunties got their copy, so that's OK then.

Doing this shoot was interesting. I was pleased with the results. Part of me (the part that has had a few glasses of wine on a Thursday night in Shoreditch House) wishes I was an 20 year old supermodel.

WHEN I MET MY MIRROR AT GIVENCHY

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

Vanessa Coyle mirroring Fashion Editor at Large

It is not often that I will post photographs of myself on this blog but I was going through my shots from Paris and there was this crazy one of me and my old friend Vanessa Coyle of Harpers Bazaar. It was taken straight after the Givenchy show, and Vanessa and I were thinking along the same lines with our look of the day, don't you think?  The jacket is - surprise, surprise! - by Celine.

Celine was by far the most popular label amongst fashion editors in Paris, and spotting it became something of a sport for myself and yet another British journalist who has this jacket, Fran Burns from Love magazine. It is unfortunate that Frannie wasn't wearing her jacket at the Givenchy show - that would have been a great picture!

That wasn't the end of the Celine-athon. This evening Sarah Mower and myself attended the press event for the Central Saint Martin's MA graduate show. Sarah was wearing the very beautiful Celine coat in camel; she also has it in black. The coat has a very particular look which Ms Philo described to Alice Rawsthorn for the New York Times last month: “It’s cut very specifically like a double-breasted coat, but worn open like a single-breasted coat,” she explains. “The cut of the shoulder and sleeves is twisted at the front, so you get this feeling that it’s sitting on your shoulders.” 

Like me, Sarah is not alone amongst her colleagues in ownership of the same item. She tells me Brana Wolf, [Harpers Bazaar USA], Aliona Doletskaya [editor-in-chief Russian Vogue] and Alex White [W Magazine] and Phoebe Philo regularly wear theirs.   
Sarah Mower looking fabulous in one of her TWO!! Celine coats. She also has it in black.  

Over the course of Paris Fashion Week, Fran Burns said she counted 17 individual women wearing the below jacket - both this length and the shorter waist-length version. I'm torn between being glad I don't have one, to jealous of those who do.
I buy my Celine from Matches. www.matchesfashion.co.uk

On another note the caramel and nude pink colour vibe ushered in this season by labels such as Celine, Stella and Chloe - to my eyes the three most influential labels for AW10 - have inspired the beginnings of my proper Spring wardrobe, which I will explore and share through this blog as it happens. Hence why, during my lunch hour from Grazia HQ today I bought this silky nude-coloured shirt from Zara for £49.99. The girl in who served me said they came in-store today. I love it! What do you think? 

  
Excuse the pose, I was camping it up for my friend Angela Buttolph, Grazia's web editor.
Picture credits:
Chris Moore/Catwalking.com
Fashion Editor at Large