most favorite day: guipure

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

Last week, we brought you news of guipure, the chunky lace which seemed to be making a noteworthy number of catwalk appearences. Well now we are sure that there is some sort of secret guipure society which has infiltrated the minds of some of the world's key designers because its presence has become almost ubiquitous during the Paris shows. So I thought I'd compile you an update of the different ways guipure and the like have taken on starring roles over the past few days of fashion month.

Patchworked, delicate panels by Peter Copping at Nina Ricci

In spearmint as a bodice overlay at Chanel

Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri went lace mad at Valentino

This is so chunky it borders on laser cut rather than straightforward lace. Valentino

Giambattista Valli went for blown up 60s floral patterns

At Louis Vuitton, a similar overblown flower on pretty, pretty parisienne dresses

More Vuitton

Louis Vuitton again. Marc Jacobs made his lace so chunky, it almost wasn't lace anymore.

Miuccia Prada continued what she began at Prada in the Miu Miu show. This time it was a little prettier. No bomber jacket to toughen up

Lace on lace on this Miu Miu skirt

All images from catwalking.com. Miu Miu images from Vogue.fr

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

Lace is nothing new on our fashion radar, in fact it is rarely off the agenda. For next Spring/Summer, there is a particular sort of lace which we have been seeing again and again on the catwalks. Let me introduce you to GUIPURE. This is a chunkier lace than the flippety, delicate pieces we might be used to. The technique for creating it is thought to originate from darning onto fishing net, which will give you some idea of the sturdier nature of this lace in comparison to, for example, a chantilly. The word guipure means a thick cord over which thread is twisted; guiper can mean 'to wrap' en francais.

Thakoon SS12

Throughout New York and London, we heard the word guipure enough times for it to stick. And then Miuccia Prada used it as an overlay throughout her collection. This cements guipure's status as a key texture for SS12. It is also highly versatile- it can be used as a trim (as on hems at Clements Ribeiro), an overlay (see Thakoon and Prada) or in an entire garment (see the Preen pencil skirt below). We've also seen designers (like Clements Ribeiro's dress below) take the guipure lace pattern and print it onto garments. This achieves the same balance of prettiness and chunkiness with the fussiness of dealing with the lace itself. So, there is clearly no one way to work your guipure- we're excited to see its many manifestations next Spring/ Summer.