AN EVENING AT BLITZ

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

Part of my role as your Fashion Junior is to act as roving reporter, heading out and about to tell you, our loyal blog readers, all about the latest London fashion happenings. For any of you residing in East London, you may well have already come across the Blitz Vintage Department store on Hanbury Street, as it has now been open for nearly a month. It has been described as the Harrods of Vintage; quite a comparison to live up to. The store is a labour of love for Vintage aficionados Jan Skinner, the store's owner, and John Howlin, the store manager. The pair, who have been involved in the East End Vintage scene for some time, have a long-held vision of a vintage store with the museum-like quality of Liberty or Dover Street Market. It sounds like it has been quite a ride to get to where the store is now. So, last Thursday evening I dragged my vintage expert friend Harriet along to help me analyse what all the fuss was about at their launch night.

Shopping for me is not just about what you buy but also how you feel when you're doing it which is why you will never find me elbowing my way through piles in Primark or rummaging for one item of hidden treasure in a heap of jumble. For some, this is the thrill of the shop, for me, I like my potential purchases where I can see them. Thus, one of the major plus points I found at Blitz was that this felt like the serene shopping experience one might expect in a concept shop, boutique or department store, perhaps not as luxe as Harrods, but certainly not your average vintage emporium where one battles with musty smells and rails crammed so full your (well, my) heart sinks. Let me be clear, Blitz does not offer anything particularly revolutionary in terms of what it is actually selling clothes-wise. Although the selection and prices are excellent, they are not the only people in London doing vintage this well. It's the store experience which makes Blitz stand out. Harriet and I also loved the way the stock was merchandised with an almost painstaking amount of thought; all the sleeves on all the shirts were rolled up, silk scarves poked out of Dr Martens and shoes lined up jauntily.

Beautiful Vintage-esque underwear from What Katie Did

What did we say last week about polkas?

It was away from the fashion that Blitz really came into its own. They had some super cool vintage kids stuff- I seriously considered purchasing baby cowboy flares complete with holster for any sons I may or not have in the very distant future. There was a great selection of  upcycled homewares, most of it highly desirable, like this collar display case, I'd love to have that in my hallway. Some of it a tad weird, like child mannequins with adult limbs attached.

 And la pièce de résistance had to be the most brilliant book selection I think I have ever seen, anywhere, at such amazing prices. Said section of the store is very conveniently situated beside the coffee bar with its 1950s Fiat installation. When we visited, the place was obviously a buzz with press and general launch night excitement, but I can imagine easily whiling away a few weekend hours perusing the library from a lovely leather armchair with a cup of coffee. Among my purchases were Margaret Atwood's 'The Year of the Flood', 'Panic Attack: Art in the Punk Years' and Alex Ross' 'The Rest is Noise'.

Blitz promises to be more than a shop, but a destination where locals can go to hang out and pursue their creative whims. I hear that there are some exciting collaborations coming up which will keep the concept fresh and position it as a serious contender to non-vintage shops. They are offering photographers, stylists and bloggers the chance to use the space for shoots and they will let clubs and societies use the store to meet in. The Japanese journalism collective 'Parsnips' are already frequent visitors and much enthusiasm has been shown in Japanese publications like Madame Figaro and Visionaire. Even if you do not fall into any of the categories above, the store will, as the name suggests, bombard you with fashion, home and literary inspiration and ideas.

Images: Bethan Holt/ Harriet Anscombe.

A Few Of My Favorite Things

Here are a few of my favorites from fellow VFG members.....enjoy!

50s Vintage Black & White Houndstooth Jacket w/ Many Buttons, Red Lining and Linen Collar S
from denisebrain

1950s Black I. Miller Leather Sandals SZ 7 from pastperfectvintage

Vintage Early 40s Rayon Floral Bouquet Dress Small from specialsomethings

At Long Last: Tres Parisien, Part 4

At long last, but worth waiting for, I bring you part 4 of the Tres Parisien pochoirs. Don't worry, they have only gotten a little older and they are still adorable. I treasure an unrealistic vision of all these framed up some day. I have only had this vision since 1990. Like world peace, a really good pizza with low calories, and the ability to sing, it will have to be another dream currently unfilled. On the plus side, I weigh what I did in high school and collage again, so anything is possible.

But enough. Here is the pretty:





for more click here: Past Perfect Vintage

Is It Satin or Is It Silk? It's both!

I'm a fabric junkie. It's one of my favorite things about vintage clothing--I find it fascinating. The perfect fabric can turn a simple design into a masterpiece, while a poor fabric selection can render a great design just ordinary. Today, I’ll tackle an often-misunderstood topic: fiber and weave. As both a seller and buyer of vintage apparel, I’m frustrated when I ask a seller about the fiber from which an item is made, and she/he doesn't understand the question. Especially if she/he stated the weave in the description. But weave is only part of the story. Fabric is a combination of fiber and weave, fiber being the raw material used to create it (e.g., wool, silk, rayon, polyester) and weave being the resulting look and texture once it is made into yardage. There is also the “how” of creating fabric (weaving, knitting, compressing, bonding, etc.), which affects weave, but that’s another can of worms for another day.










“So, why is this important?”, you might ask. While some buyers really don’t care about fiber, many do. Some can’t wear synthetics, some can’t wear certain natural fibers. For others, it’s a matter of preference. And, for both buyers and sellers, knowing the fiber can determine how to care for/clean/store the garment. This subject is so expansive and can be so complex, I don’t expect every seller to be a fabric expert! I don’t at all consider myself one, at that. But, since fiber-content labels are a relatively recent development in apparel manufacturing, sellers and buyers alike need a basic understanding of fiber and weave, and how to recognize them. For buyers, knowing the fiber can help them get a sense of how the fabric will feel and drape (or not) on the body.











People often know weaves but don’t realize that several different fibers can be used to create the same weave. This commonly occurs with satin, taffeta, chiffon, jersey, velvet, gabardine, jacquard, seersucker, and others. Since this would be a book and not a blog if I addressed all of them, I’ll start with the first three:











Satin: Most folks know satin, that shiny, smooth-textured, “slippery” fabric from which many evening and wedding gowns, nicer lingerie, and some linings are made. It can be made from silk, rayon, and polyester, and, sometimes, acetate. Cotton satin is called “sateen.” De-lustered, or matte, satin is often done in silk and called “peau de soie.” It has a very subtle luster and is delightful! You can see the difference in sheen in these two dresses, one a traditional rayon satin, the other a peau de soie:









Rayon satin Fred Perlberg gown from Alley Cats Vintage:

















Pink peau de soie dress from Catseye Vintage:



















Taffeta: Also a smooth, finely woven fabric with a sheen to it, but is “crisp” and usually thinner than satin. It was very popular in the full-skirted party dresses of the 50s, often layered with tulle. Now commonly used in dress and coat linings. Though we usually see it in acetate or rayon, it used to be made mostly of silk. Nylon also can be woven into a taffeta finish—most notably the Barbizon “Tafredda” slips (when I got my first one, I was astounded that it was 100% nylon!).








Red rayon taffeta evening gown from Vintage Baubles













Chiffon: That sheer, thin, and airy fabric seen in party dresses, wedding gowns, etc. Vintage double-chiffon peignoir sets have been popular for years. Chiffon is often used for sleeves, ruffles, and bodice insets. When used for a full garment, it’s often lined in taffeta. It can be made from silk, nylon, polyester, and rayon.








Print silk-chiffon dress previously sold by Vintage Baubles:















How to tell the difference? The best way is through handling as many different known fibers and weaves as you can. Note the content and weave of modern and vintage garments you already have--how they feel, how they drape, etc. Go to the fabric store, take a bolt of silk satin and one of polyester satin, and compare the feel. There's nothing like “hands-on” practice! Identifying fabrics will become easier over time. But, no matter how well versed you are, sometimes you just can’t tell. I use my sewing books and online resources as reference; after sewing for 40 years and selling for 10, I still check them. Often. You should also learn how to do a burn test. This isn’t always possible (sometimes you can't snip a piece to test), but it can be very valuable. Do a search for “fiber burn test,” and you’ll find charts, tips on methodology, etc. Bear in mind that any of the weaves discussed today can consist of blends of fibers; in that case, even a burn test may be inconclusive.









Sometimes, if you’re a seller, you end up just not being sure. In that case, I generally state my best guess as to fiber (and am clear that it's a guess). In online selling, where a buyer can’t handle an item, I think it’s critical to state, to the extent possible, the fiber and weave of a piece.

VINTAGE AT GOODWOOD - DAY ONE AFTERMATH!

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

After months of anticipation, Vintage at Goodwood festival made its debut today, and it looked a little something like this....

Lots of beautiful people....

And others being made to look beautiful....

A catwalk show featuring beautiful Biba-ites...(plus festival organiser Wayne Hemingway)

Then some not-so beautiful rain. Boo.

Thankfully there were vintage stalls to keep us entertained, plus the sudden cold and dreary weather meant I just HAD to buy a peach mohair jumper (excuse tired 'festival' face in pic below)

But ultimately mud stopped play and there was no way I could walk around in my heeled brogues without completely obliterating them. Here's hoping for practical footwear and sunny skies tomorrow!

(For more pics from the day, please see the Fashion Junior's blog)

THE NEW WAY TO SHOP??

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

I don't know about you, but I think vintage clothes can be ridiculously overpriced for what they are. Especially in Brick Lane and its environs, but also generally at street markets and vintage shops in university towns around the country.

Shopkeepers charge whatever they think you will be willing to pay for said item. So, if that is a tattered 1930s chiffon tea dress with sweat stains and a questionable smell emanating from the armpits the price really should NOT be £450.

These people think they know how to price vintage, and they don't. My first job in what would have been called my Gap Year today (better known as my "I don't know what to do with my life" year) was the fashion vintage sorter for Rokit, the vintage fashion institution with outlets on Camden High Street, Brick Lane and in Covent Garden.

In the end I worked at Rokit for three years (working around my degree), as a result I know a lot about vintage. And I know most of what we buy in shops is initially sold to the supplier by weight. Hence the concept of buying by weight has always appealed to me. So when a press release for Kilo Klub, a vintage sale that charges for vintage clothes by weight,  popped into my inbox at Grazia I just had to tell you about it.

This pop up sale claims to be the cheapest way to buy your vintage. Whether you are looking for the perfect 1960's cape coat, a gorgeous 50s prom dress or an 80s jumpsuit, be prepared to rummage through 12 tonnes of stuff to hunt down your bounty. Items are sold by kilo weight, £15 per kilo, which means ladies shoes will usually be £6-£8, shirts/blouses around £3, dresses come up at £4-£8. We've got our fingers crossed that there will be some amazing finds to be had - and at those prices, there will be minimal wallet damage.

Rummage sales can be hard work, but if you enter into the spirit of the thing, they can be a whole lot of fun, and more entertaining than a 2am eBay bidding war! I have personally experienced the stress of shopping for vintage online - when you are unsure about the fit or quality, and then it arrives and your worst fears come true. With my years of rummaging experience, not to mention an ability to check for sweat stains, holes, odd smells, loose seams and worn out patches in a record ten seconds, I expect Kilo Klub will be a blast.

With the AW season approaching I have prepared a hit list of the sort of things I will be looking out for:

Marc Jacobs faux fur

Prada sweater and skinny belts

 Chloe camel coat

 Louis Vuitton 1950's dress

M

 Miu Miu 1960's shift

Stella McCartney grandad cardigan

Kilo Klub is on Friday 6th, Sat 7th and Sun 8th August, 10am to 5pm (6pm on Sunday) at Drays Walk Gallery space, Brick Lane. For more information please call 07850 111707.

Additional reporting Fashion Junior at Large
(Image: Lauren, courtesy of Queens of Vintage, all catwalk shots, Style.com)

July 20 VFG Fashion Parade *A Casual Classic-The Sundress*

July 20 A Casual Classic-The Sundress
Forget the Tshirt and shorts, the classic sundress is the right way to go when you want to be cool, comfortable, and stylish this summer.

Flirty pink eyelet 1950s cotton sundress from BC TREASURE TROVE


Tina Leser early 50s strapless sun dress w/ attached wrap from LIVING DOLL VINTAGE

Horrockses blue & white cotton print 1950's sundress from VIVA VINTAGE CLOTHING

You can find more sunny weather vintage from VFG members on the VINTAGE FASHION GUILD FASHION PARADE!

Wanna Shop VFG Members? We've Made It Easy!

We've just added a new feature to the Vintage Fashion Guild website! On any page of the site, just look to the left for this link (click to check it out!)...

And voila! Type in what you're looking for and you will find not only a plethora of items relevant to your search BUT you will be able to shop knowing that the seller's are vetted members of the Vintage Fashion Guild! Sweet? Indeed. We're still tweaking it so keep checking back as we add members and we all work on our listings to make sure you find what you need!