Those people at Dior at sneaky. While we were all comatose after our four day Easter weekend, they sprang upon us the news which we've been waiting for well over a year. Raf Simons is to succeed John Galliano as Creative Director at Christian Dior. Cathy Horyns broke the news for the New York Times. Of course, Twitter exploded and it wasn't long before thoughts turned to how Dior will look with Simons at the helm. The FashEd wrote about the great loves which have informed Raf's design vision until now. We can't wait for July, when Simons' first couture collection will be unveiled.
Raf to Dior (image from www.ology.com)
For quite some time, it was thought that Marc Jacobs may leave Louis Vuitton to take up the Dior role. Of course, he hasn't. Instead this week he's been celebrating his 49th birthday with a holiday in Rio. In fact, if you want to spy a designer taking time out then now is the time to keep an eye out at the world's loveliest beaches. The AW12 selling season is done and there's the whole Summer ahead to worry about SS13.
Marc rejoices in the waves as his boyfriend harry Louis looks on. (image from dailymail.co.uk)
So Marc has had free reign to frolic in the waves with his boyfriend Harry Louis and provide us with many lovely pics of their beach antics. Happy Birthday for Monday, Marc!
Marc with Amanda Lepore in 2006 (image from fashionologie.com)
While fashion's biggest vacancy has now been filled, there are still a few major designers without roles. Most notably, Stefano Pilati who left YSL after March's AW12 show to be replaced by Hedi Slimane. New whisperings this week suggest that Pilati may be recruited by Armani to take over from the eponymous designer who is now in his late 70s. Watch this space...
Stefano Pilati gets hug from Chloe Sevingy(image from stylefrizz.com)
Daphne Guinness in her bespoke McQueen dress which is expected to fetch up to £20,000 (image from vogue.co.uk)
There's still a couple of months to go before the UK goes into Jubilee and Olympic frenzy. The madness has already begun in advertising with every other TV and cinema ad featuring tenuous links to the activities. There are some perfectly delightful projects getting us geared up for a Summer of patriotism though. Harvey Nichols have transformed their windows into a mid-century tribute to Britain at the time of the Coronation. Luckily, the SS12 collections ladylike and pastel themes fit in very nicely. You nip into fishmongers "Nic's Plaice" for all trends nautical and mermaid-y while "Harvey Nickers" is the go-to for lacy prettiness. And it wouldn't be SS12 without Meadham Kirchhoff in the sweet shop.
Rodarte's Van Gogh dress takes pride of place in the greengrocers (image from telegraph.co.uk)
The mermaid at Nic's Plaice (image from telegraph.co.uk)
Meadham Kirchhoff"s sugary sweet shop (image from telegraph.co.uk)
Last week, I wrote about our culture of thinness and, more widely, a disdain for women's bodies. This week, Ashley Judd, a female celebrity who has been the subject of the media's wild judgements of her appearance, spoke out against the practise.
Ashley Judd, whose face has caused extensive speculation recently (image from www.thedailybeast.com)
"I hope the sharing of my thoughts can generate a new conversation: Why was a puffy face cause for such a conversation in the first place? How, and why, did people participate? If not in the conversation about me, in parallel ones about women in your sphere? What is the gloating about? What is the condemnation about? What is the self-righteous alleged “all knowing” stance of the media about? How does this symbolize constraints on girls and women, and encroach on our right to be simply as we are, at any given moment? How can we as individuals in our private lives make adjustments that support us in shedding unconscious actions, internalized beliefs, and fears about our worthiness, that perpetuate such meanness? What can we do as families, as groups of friends? Is what girls and women can do different from what boys and men can do? What does this have to do with how women are treated in the workplace?"
Should you be heading to LA this Summer, be sure to visit the new Herb Ritts: LA Style exhibition which is taking place at the Getty Centre. The legendary 1980s photographer was remembered by Naomi Campbell to The Guardian this week. Ritts may be best know for his stark and sculptural images of supermodels including Campbell, Christy Turlington and Cindy Crawford. I love the image below which captures the nude, intertwined bodies of some of the best know women of the time.
Stephanie, Cindy, Christy, Tatjana, Naomi, Hollywood from 1989 by Herb Ritts (image from a selection on the Guardian.)
The Great Scrunchie Debate, first ignited when Carrie screwed her nose up at a tourist's choice of ponytail binding in Sex and the City series 6, has been revisited this week with the 'news' that American Secretary of State, Hilary Clinton's aides would like her to keep her to put way her beloved scrunchies. Sartorially speaking, it's probably fair to say that Ms. Clinton probably has more in common with a tourist from Georgia than fashion obsessed Carrie. However, what with the current trend for a 80s/90s street rave look, a scrunchie could be a rather nice addition to the look. Really, it's all in the styling. I like the experiments of the girls from Elle- scrunchies are not so bad as Clinton's colleagues might make out, but perhaps not teamed with Carolina Herrera trouser suits in the same colour.
Hilary Clinton works the scrunchie (image from www.politico.com)
Ginnifer Goodwin works the Margot the catwalk way (image from glamour.com)
Coleen rocks the Margot at Aintree (image from daily mail)
Roksanda Ilincic's wonderful Margot dress- in bright fuchsia with bell sleeves- has been tipped to be the dress of this season, having sold out 80 times over (and maybe more) by now at Matches. Cute American actress Ginnifer Goodwin was recently seen it it and the FashEd tells me that a few of her editor friends are also proud owners. Basically, it was all going so well. Until yesterday that it is, when Coleen Rooney rocked up to the first day of Aintree clad in her very own Margot dress. Rather than retaining Ilincic's looser, longer and more chic catwalk styling Coleen had chosen a version which was short and tight. While we love that Coleen is supporting London designers, to our eye she made the Margot into a whole new dress. Of course, this is actually proof that it IS the dress of the season, but thankfully, when it fits right the look is so different it might as well be another garment. Will some cool girl please come and revive Margot's reputation?
Finally video of the week goes to Gia Coppola's (niece of Sophia) short and kooky and lovely film to mark the collaboration between DVF and Current Elliott. It's called Writer's Block and tells the story of a young and beautiful screen writer and her, er, writer's block. The music, by Robert Schwartzman, another relative, gives it a kind of 60s horror film drama. And the clothes are lovely too, modelled throughout by the film's star Tracy Antonopolous. It's definitely a refreshing take on the DVF brand.
Just back from the Harvey Nichols press day. Like all great department stores this one is a global institution, and a national treasure with branches across Britain. Therefore their press day is an opportunity to see what fashion lovers in Edinburgh, Birmingham, Manchester and London will gain access to next Spring. One of my discoveries is so fabulous I'm saving her until tomorrow for an in-depth look at her work, but the best of the rest is here for your pleasure...
Below is a truly spectacular print from young New York based Parisian Jospeh Altuzarra who won American fashion's most prestigious new talent award, the $300,000 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, last night. The pocket diva is going to be huge! Trust. One thing is for sure, his sexy tropicana chic will be a welcome lift when it hits the store next spring. Just how awesome is this print?
The print above came from a dress v similar to this one. (via catwalking.com)
Hello Joseph! Lookin hawt in one of your dresses, yes? (from W Magazine via holymoly.com)
Joseph Altuzarra was not present at Harvey Nichols' press day. He was probably nursing a celebratory hangover in NYC but other designers of note were in attendance at the store. Ed Meadham and Ben Kirchhoff, the designers behind Meadham Kirchhoff, turned up to see how Harvey Nichols, which had taken as inspiration for its press day their saccharine sweet Spring/Summer 2012 show. had handled it. Cue several arches of pastel coloured balloons, candy-floss, a balloon lady (see below) and lots of Meadham Kirchhoff's sickly-sweet Spring/Summer 2012 collection. Ben + Ed were on typical form. They informed me thay have a new PR, Black Frame in London and they are the only client of the London office. Black Frame reps Rodarte in New York. Things are definitely looking on the up and up for these two.
Sweetie-pie chic by Meadham Kirchhoff at Harvey Nichols
Lastly, my third (but not final) inspirational Harvey Nicks moment of the day was the young model and illustrator Naomi Preizler who created the little take-away sum-up of the press day below. She uses herself as a model in this illustration, but is also known to sketch fellow models backstage at the shows. She doesn't have a website for her illustration work, but hopefully this is only a matter of time.
Last night Harvey Nichols hosted a dinner for Lula, to celebrate the magazine turning 5 years old and their collaboration with editor Leith Clark to produce a Lula pop-up boutique on the 4th Floor.
World famous set designer Fiona Leahy created a stunning room for the dinner, complete with gorgeous peony arrangements, kitsch statuettes and walls lined with silver heart shaped balloons.
Leith had invited all of Lula's favourite friends, including the truly elegant actress Clemence Poesy, our new favourite singer Coco Sumner, and designer Erdem.
Clemence Poesy
Coco Sumner
Leith Clark (wearing the specially designed Rodarte for Lula dress) with Erdem
Other fashionable faces included model Liberty Ross, Charlotte Dellal and Daisy de Villeneuve.
The meal was completely chic, with delicious food created by the Harvey Nichols in-house team, including this adorable dessert which caused a ripple of 'ooh's as they were served!
The entire evening was a celebration of all things 'Lula', and was complimented by a great performance by Coco, who serenaded us with a few songs from her debut release.
I Blame Coco at work
Leith, along with the Lula staff and the team at Harvey Nichols have been feverishly preparing the 'Pop Up' boutique, which features a choice selection of exclusive, limited edition pieces created especially for the event. Rodarte designed the beautiful green dress Leith was wearing for the evening (which she said made her feel like a beautiful cake, which is hard to disagree with!) It is also available to buy from the boutique, along with a brilliant 'Radarte' t-shirt and pieces from Miu Miu, Erdem, Lover and Rachel Antonoff. The Pop Up is only open for a short while, so if you are in London make a beeline for the fourth floor of Harvey Nichols, otherwise you can purchase pieces online.
It was a lovely evening, executed with all the attention to detail you would expect from a magazine that makes every page a work of art. Leith was obviously overjoyed with the event and the collaboration itself, perhaps because Harvey Nichols is her favourite shop in London. The only downside to the Harvey Nicks/Lula love in is that it is around for a limited time only - this is the kind of retail 'happening' that should 'happen' more often, as far as we are concerned!
To discover what it is like to attend an event like this as a fashion newbie, have a read of today's Glitterbird post.
Back in February I wrote a piece for this blog on Hakaan, solving the mystery of who this unfamiliar name was that had cropped up on the London Fashion Week schedule. (Click the link, there are some great pictures!)
Writing "I made a couple of calls and discovered that he is a 39 year old Istanbul based designer, who won a major Turkish fashion competition. This earned him the attention of Mert Alas, one half of Matt & Marcus the photographic duo who shoot half of the worlds fashion campaigns."
The show was a success, attracting Kate Moss and Carine Roitfeld to the front row, and models included Natasha Vodianova, Anje Rubik, Lara Stone and Natasha Poly. Next Harvey Nichols signed Hakaan on an exclusive one-season deal, and to top off the designer's brilliant year today it has been announced that he has won ANDAM. For a young designer this is like winning the lottery !!
With a purse of E200,000, the ANDAM fashion grant is one of the biggest in the world. Chaired by Pierre Bergé, directed by Nathalie Dufour and backed by the Ministry of Culture and the DEFI, ANDAM has been identifying and promoting the most promising talents in contemporary fashion, in the process contributing to the vitality and international prestige of the Paris fashion scene for over 20 years.
It means we will lose Hakaan to the Paris schedule, which is a shame for us, but great for him, and also puts Istanbul on the fashion map. The iconic 90s designer Rifat Ozbek lives there full time, and now he has a fashion buddy. Go Hakaan!
Now I REALLY hope I run into him this weekend in Istanbul at the Istancool event organised by the amazing Liberatum organisation. It promises to be mindblowing, and I will be reporting direct from the event Friday through Sunday, and cannot wait! The program is totally inspiring.
The five designers who lost out are Alexandre Vauthier, Francesco Scognamiglio, Bouchra Jarrar, Calla Haynes and Mark Fast
For more on the Andam Award 2010 finalists see Fashion Windows
