THE WEEK IN FASHION: APRIL 9th-13th

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Those people at Dior at sneaky. While we were all comatose after our four day Easter weekend, they sprang upon us the news which we've been waiting for well over a year. Raf Simons is to succeed John Galliano as Creative Director at Christian Dior. Cathy Horyns broke the news for the New York Times. Of course, Twitter exploded and it wasn't long before thoughts turned to how Dior will look with Simons at the helm. The FashEd wrote about the great loves which have informed Raf's design vision until now. We can't wait for July, when Simons' first couture collection will be unveiled.

Raf to Dior (image from www.ology.com)

For quite some time, it was thought that Marc Jacobs may leave Louis Vuitton to take up the Dior role. Of course, he hasn't. Instead this week he's been celebrating his 49th birthday with a holiday in Rio. In fact, if you want to spy a designer taking time out then now is the time to keep an eye out at the world's loveliest beaches. The AW12 selling season is done and there's the whole Summer ahead to worry about SS13.

Marc rejoices in the waves as his boyfriend harry Louis looks on. (image from dailymail.co.uk)

So Marc has had free reign to frolic in the waves with his boyfriend Harry Louis and provide us with many lovely pics of their beach antics. Happy Birthday for Monday, Marc!

Marc with Amanda Lepore in 2006 (image from fashionologie.com)

While fashion's biggest vacancy has now been filled, there are still a few major designers without roles. Most notably, Stefano Pilati who left YSL after March's AW12 show to be replaced by Hedi Slimane. New whisperings this week suggest that Pilati may be recruited by Armani to take over from the eponymous designer who is now in his late 70s. Watch this space...

Stefano Pilati gets  hug from Chloe Sevingy(image from stylefrizz.com)

Daphne Guinness is donating pieces from her vast fashion collection to a Christies auction to launch and raise funds for The Isabella Blow foundation. Highlights include a silver dress which Lee McQueen made especially for Guinness in 2008. Apparently some of the items to be auctioned could sell for as  little as £300, what might that be? A Chanel button maybe? The Isabella Blow Foundation will raise funds to continue Issie's work, nurturing emerging from the art and fashion worlds.

Daphne Guinness in her bespoke McQueen dress which is expected to fetch up to £20,000 (image from vogue.co.uk)

There's still a couple of months to go before the UK goes into Jubilee and Olympic frenzy. The madness has already begun in advertising with every other TV and cinema ad featuring tenuous links to the activities. There are some perfectly delightful projects getting us geared up for a Summer of patriotism though. Harvey Nichols have transformed their windows into a mid-century tribute to Britain at the time of the Coronation. Luckily, the SS12 collections ladylike and pastel themes fit in very nicely. You nip into fishmongers "Nic's Plaice" for all trends nautical and mermaid-y while "Harvey Nickers" is the go-to for lacy prettiness. And it wouldn't be SS12 without Meadham Kirchhoff in the sweet shop.

Rodarte's Van Gogh dress takes pride of place in the greengrocers (image from telegraph.co.uk)

The mermaid at Nic's Plaice (image from telegraph.co.uk)

Meadham Kirchhoff"s sugary sweet shop (image from telegraph.co.uk)

Last week, I wrote about our culture of thinness and, more widely,  a disdain for women's bodies. This week, Ashley Judd,  a female celebrity who has been the subject of the media's wild judgements of her appearance, spoke out against the practise.

Ashley Judd, whose face has caused extensive speculation recently (image from www.thedailybeast.com)

Here's an extract from her lengthy piece, which is well worth reading in full:

"I hope the sharing of my thoughts can generate a new conversation: Why was a puffy face cause for such a conversation in the first place? How, and why, did people participate? If not in the conversation about me, in parallel ones about women in your sphere? What is the gloating about? What is the condemnation about? What is the self-righteous alleged “all knowing” stance of the media about? How does this symbolize constraints on girls and women, and encroach on our right to be simply as we are, at any given moment? How can we as individuals in our private lives make adjustments that support us in shedding unconscious actions, internalized beliefs, and fears about our worthiness, that perpetuate such meanness? What can we do as families, as groups of friends? Is what girls and women can do different from what boys and men can do? What does this have to do with how women are treated in the workplace?"

Should you be heading to LA this Summer, be sure to visit the new Herb Ritts: LA Style exhibition which is taking place at the Getty Centre. The legendary 1980s photographer was remembered by Naomi Campbell to The Guardian this week. Ritts may be best know for his stark and sculptural images of supermodels including Campbell, Christy Turlington and Cindy Crawford. I love the image below which captures the nude, intertwined bodies of some of the best know women of the time. 

Stephanie, Cindy, Christy, Tatjana, Naomi, Hollywood from 1989 by Herb Ritts (image from a selection on the Guardian.)

The Great Scrunchie Debate, first ignited when Carrie screwed her nose up at a tourist's choice of ponytail binding in Sex and the City series 6, has been revisited this week with the 'news' that American Secretary of State, Hilary Clinton's aides would like her to keep her to put way her beloved scrunchies. Sartorially speaking, it's probably fair to say that Ms. Clinton probably has more in common with a tourist from Georgia than fashion obsessed Carrie. However, what with the current trend for a 80s/90s street rave look, a scrunchie could be a rather nice addition to the look. Really, it's all in the styling. I like the experiments of the girls from Elle- scrunchies are not so bad as Clinton's colleagues might make out, but perhaps not teamed with Carolina Herrera trouser suits in the same colour. 

Hilary Clinton works the scrunchie (image from www.politico.com)

Scrunchies for now- image from www.sweetandsound.co.uk

Ginnifer Goodwin works the Margot the catwalk way (image from glamour.com)

Coleen rocks the Margot at Aintree (image from daily mail)

Roksanda Ilincic's wonderful Margot dress- in bright fuchsia with bell sleeves- has been tipped to be the dress of this season, having sold out 80 times over (and maybe more) by now at Matches. Cute American actress Ginnifer Goodwin was recently seen it it and the FashEd tells me that a few of her editor friends are also proud owners. Basically, it was all going so well. Until yesterday that it is, when Coleen Rooney rocked up to the first day of Aintree clad in her very own Margot dress. Rather than retaining Ilincic's looser, longer and more chic catwalk styling Coleen had chosen a version which was short and tight. While we love that Coleen is supporting London designers, to our eye she made the Margot into a whole new dress. Of course, this is actually proof that it IS the dress of the season, but thankfully, when it fits right the look is so different it might as well be another garment. Will some cool girl please come and revive Margot's reputation?

Finally video of the week goes to Gia Coppola's (niece of Sophia) short and kooky and lovely film to mark the collaboration between DVF and Current Elliott. It's called Writer's Block and tells the story of a young and beautiful screen writer and her, er, writer's block. The music, by Robert Schwartzman, another relative, gives it a kind of 60s horror film drama. And the clothes are lovely too, modelled throughout by the film's star Tracy Antonopolous. It's definitely a refreshing take on the DVF brand.

ADVENT DAY 15: OH, PRETTY DAY!

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large.

 It may be cold outside but there's nothing like a ice cream sweet new Louis Vuitton advert to brighten the day. After the merry-go-round setting of the SS12 show, the location for the ad campaign had to be equally evocative of innocent, childish fun times. And where better to go after a fairground visit than for a knickerbockerglory... And so Steven Meisel and Marc Jacobs chose an ice cream parlour as the setting for the campaign which only strengthens the message we got from the show- that is, you can't get too saccharine for Spring this year. The sweeter and prettier the better.

Image from fashiongonerogue.com

The models, a blonde and a brunette, are Daria Strokous and Kati Nescher. Both walked in the show back in October.Jacobs told WWD 'It is all very soft and very sweet, yet at the same time very bold and very graphic'. That boldness surely comes from the absolute commitment to sweetness which this collection, and these ads, show. There is also a lot of humour too, from the models' playful poses to the desserts waiting to be eaten. But there is still structure coming from those signature boxy jackets and, of course, the accessories. Oh Marc, you're clever!

Backstage at LV SS12 (Image from lloyd-evans.com)

 Today's advent choice is a direct consequence of waking up to these images. I've always hankered after a Pashley bicycle and the Vuitton ads bring that wish back to the front of my mind. Apart from one of those Speedy or Lockit bags, a pink Pashley Poppy is possibly the perfect accompaniment to a Vuitton-like SS12 outfit. I say 'like' because I can guarantee that for those of us who can't quite buy into Marc's vision directly, there will be a wealth of choice on the high street for making your own version pastel-y loveliness. The Pashley will take you from fairground to ice cream parlour very nicely, without ruining the fantasy.

Pashley Poppy in Blush Pink £450

Louis Vuitton sent us these pictures showing some of the latest celebrities showing off their SS12 Vuitton. Although the dresses look beautiful, in a real life setting so much of that sorbet sugariness is taken away that these pieces take on a whole new vibe in my eyes. So basically, you can wear your LV SS12 on a Pashley in the sunshine, ice cream in hand. Or contrast its the lightness with a night time film premiere/ party- the choice is yours...

The ever elegant Cate Blanchett

The ever sweet Elle Fanning

Olivia Wilde (images courtesy of Louis Vuitton)

Today's quote and video come from the most sugarly sweet character there ever was...

'Practically perfect in every way' Mary Poppins

THE WEEK IN FASHION: 14th-18th NOVEMBER

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

It's a case of fashion mirroring life this week as we bring you news of births and deaths and, er, rebirths. It's been pretty dramatic actually.

Tom Ford SS12

American Vogue has just released the very first pictures of Tom Ford's SS12 collection (photographed by the multitalented Mr Ford himself). The former Gucci designer had decreed that the designs he showcased in a highly exclusive catwalk show should not be seen until now to avoid people becoming bored of them before they were available to buy. However, he suffered something of a backlash when fashion editors including The Guardian's Jess Cartner-Morley and Le Figaro's Virginie Mouzat wrote negative reviews not only of the clothes but also of that approach to showing. Sarah Mower's interview with Ford, which is posted beneath the pictures, reveals that Ford will revert to intimate showroom presentations for his next collection, emphasising the necessity to explain each look in detail. Furthermore, Ford claims that he designs in response to what his customers want, hence all the flounced mini dresses. Now that we can see for ourselves, what are your thoughst?

Tom Ford SS12

Tom Ford SS12 (All images from American Vogue)

Evelyn, her husband Leonard and Estée (from WWD)

On Sunday, the sad news arrived that Evelyn Lauder, daughter in law of Estée, had died at the age of 75 from Ovarian Cancer, having suffered Breast Cancer in the past. Evelyn not only played an instrumental role in growing Estée Lauder from a small family business into one of the world's biggest beauty companies but she also made a profound contribution to raising awareness and funds for Breast Cancer Research. In 1989, she was diagnosed with the disease and went on to spearhead the Pink Ribbon campaign which has now become a widely recognised symbol of support. The fact that Evelyn's childhood was marred by her family's escape from Nazi-occupied Europe only makes her lifetime achievements more incredible. The New York Times' obituary has some fascinating insights into Evelyn's life.

The Lauder family. Evelyn is seated, hugged by her son. Estée is in the white hat (from WWD)

In happier news, it's time to congratulate Julia Restoin Roitfeld, daughter of Carine, who's expecting her first baby. Somehow we can't imagine Carine sitting down to knit booties or change a nappy quite yet but I think we can safely say that this could be the best dressed grandchild on the planet once it arrives in May. A day out with Grandma Roitfeld could involve anything from sitting FROW at fashion week to crawling around on a Chanel shoot... Lucky babes!

Julia with boyfriend and baby daddy, Robert Konjic (image from thevoguediaries.com)

Versace Couture SS09 (images from audreysworld.blogspot.com)

 This week has, let's admit it, been rather dominated by the launch of Versace's collection for H&M. Just a couple of days before the brand went high street, it was announced that they would be swinging right back the other way in January with the re-introduction of a couture show. It's set to take place on January 23rd, the first day of the couture week. WWD points out that Versace has still been doing couture during its seven year absence from the schedule, opting to keep to more discreet appointments. I guess now that the world is buzzing with Versace frenzy, it's a good time to capitalise on keeping up the momentum. I can't imagine we'll see the queues we saw yesterday though!

Versace Couture SS09

Marc Jacobs' SS12 London press day had to be cancelled yesterday after the collection was stolen during its journey from Paris. Some have pointed the finger at counterfeiters who might be out to copy the collection.  Or could it be a sneaky ploy by Dior HQ to harangue Jacobs into becoming their Head Designer? Whoever the culprits are, one thing's for sure- they will be easily identified by their translucent flapper dresses and general 'thirties meets future' vibe. No word of a reward for information as yet...

Missing: Have you seen this Marc Jacobs SS12? (Image from www.lloyd-evans.com)

The best ad campaigns are the ones which get everyone talking; Benetton have certainly achieved that this week with their latest set of images which depict world-famous figures kissing one another. If you can see the lighter side of the world's current woes then these are very entertaining. However, the Vatican were not in a humorous mood about the image which shows the Pope in embrace with Mohammed Ahmed al-Tayeb, an Egyptian Grand Sheik. The Guardian reports that Fr Federico Lombardi said: "We must express the firmest protest for this absolutely unacceptable use of the image of the Holy Father, manipulated and exploited in a publicity campaign with commercial ends. This shows a grave lack of respect for the pope, an offence to the feelings of believers, a clear demonstration of how publicity can violate the basic rules of respect for people by attracting attention with provocation." There is a deeper message to Benetton's images though; they support Unhate which is campaigning for a world free from hate culture, what's to object to about that?

The Pope with Mohammed Ahmed al-Tayeb

Angela Merkel and Nicholas Sarcozy get cosy (Images from dailymail.co.uk)

 On Sunday, the surprise news emerged that Tamara Mellon would be leaving her role at Jimmy Choo, the company she has ushered from small time cobbler to one of the world's best known accessories brands. On Sunday evening, there was an impeccably timed advert for Jimmy Choo perfume during X Factor which starred Mellon herself. A firm reminder to those in the industry that she knows exactly how to play the game. Speculation that Mellon will be launching her own name brand before too long is already mounting. The fashion world's eyes are sure to be closely watching how Jimmy Choo and Tamara Mellon get on without one another. Lisa Armstrong is sure that we should expect plenty more from Mellon...

Mellon starring in Jimmy Choo's perfume campaign (image from nytimes.com)

In case you hadn't noticed, Lady Gaga has been in the UK this week and while she's here she has been taking advantage of the opportunity to showcase designs by some of London's finest. It must have been love at first sight for Gaga and the Roksanda Ilincic dress which she was seen out and about in just an hour after it was sent to her on Wednesday! She's also worn two outfits from Osman Yousefzada's SS12 collection and a look from Simone Rocha's first standalone collection which comprised a beautiful array of trapped lace pieces. It looks like Gaga has developed her look recently after parting from her long time stylist and collaborator Laurieann Gibson earlier this month. Here at FEAL, we're loving the Gaga London look, long may it continue!

Gaga in Simone Rocha (image from graziadaily.co.uk)

In Osman (image from telegraph.co.uk)

In Roksanda Ilincic (image from telegraph.co.uk)

Sample Sale Alert! Next Friday 25th November, Mawi jewellers will be having a massive sample sale with up to 80% off usual prices. It'll be at MAWI STUDIO, 2, Nimrod Passage, London. N1 4BU from 9am to 8pm. Just in time for Christmas!

This necklace will be reduced from £810 to £300

This L'Wren Scott dress is $999 from $2145; in ££ that's about £500.... not bad. Gilt.com

Last night the FashEd had dinner with Kevin Ryan and Alexandra Wilkis Wilson the founder and co-founder of the hugely successful American flash sale site gilt.com at the Savoy. The occasion was the firm making its discounted stock available for UK and European shipping for the first time. Think of the site as TK Maxx online, but whereas TK Maxx run their shops with a less is more approach, Gilt.com is a slick package, and trying to make discounted luxury feel sexy and special.


Joining the site is free, and once a UK member you can log on every day at 5pm to gain access to 20 flash sales. What fun. Today’s bargains come from, among others, L’Wren Scott. You have to but in $$ but with the current exchange rate, this is a good thing! We would encourage you to join now at Gilt.com.

THE WEEK IN FASHION: 24TH- 28TH OCT

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

Hello Friday Fashion lovers. Welcome once again to your end of week fashion news round-up...

 First up, our immaculately placed sources tell us  that Marc Jacobs will CATEGORICALLY not be taking the vacant role at Dior, despite all the hype pointing to his imminent appointment. I'm afraid we can't shed much light on who it will be but the FashEd is thinking that it may end up being a complete surprise, somebody we've hardly heard of before. Quite frankly, I wish they'd just hurry up and tell us- the suspense is too much.

Marc with Kate Moss after Louis Vuitton SS12 (Image from Vogue.fr)

In other Marc related news, this week he has been appointed a member of the CFDA board- the panel which represents the American fashion industry and exerts influence in all areas of the fashion world. It seems baffling that after many years at the top of his game, designing for his two eponymous labels as well as Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs has only just been admitted onto the panel. Proenza Schouler duo Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez also took up their places.

The Proenza boys (Image from www.thegloss.com)

Golly jeeps, I'll stop going on about anything Marc related in a mo, I promise. However our third bit of news is the rumoured development of Louis Vuitton's first perfume. WWD reported that Jacques Cavallier- Belletrud, whose family are long time perfumers from Grasse, the home of fragrance making, will begin concocting something in January. That's all we know at the moment. Many of the world's biggest design houses are summed up by their perfumes; Chanel No.5 and YSL Rive Gauche are just two which spring to mind. Thus if this perfume comes off, it will be an echo of Louis Vuitton's identity, rather than part of it.

Sacks of rose petals used to make Chanel No.5, in Grasse (Image from graziadaily.co.uk)

 My Monday was greatly brightened by the news that King Karl Lagerfeld is launching a new and very affordable line of clothing. Prices will start at just 60 euros in the 100 piece collection which will be available from 25th January at Net-a-Porter. According to those in the know, Saskia de Brauw stars in the lookbook; highlights include a backless black dress and silver jeans as well as Karl's own personal favourite fingerless gloves.It seems the venture is mostly down to Pier Paolo Righi who heads up the Karl Lagerfeld brand. His philosophy? It would be stupid not to build on the 100 million euro plus which Lagerfeld already generates. Business sense for them, fashion joy for us!

Karl Lagerfeld with Pier Paolo Righi

After her wedding dress was heavily referenced by the Duchess of Cambridge back in April, my obsession with Princess Grace of Monaco A.K.A Grace Kelly hit an all time high. Wonderful timing then for a film about a six month period of her life with Prince Rainier of Monaco when she played a central role is abating tensions with France. After much wrangling, the script by Arah Amelhaving will now be produced by Pierre Ange Le Pogam. I should imagine that Princess Grace would be a dream character to play for any actress. My personal picks would be January Jones, whose Mad Men character Betty Draper has consistently been compared to Princess Grace, or Rosamund Pike who can flit between icy and warm with immense talent. Both have the look to do justice to a woman who is oft called one of the most beautiful ever. Now, who will design the costumes?

Grace Kelly (image from easyart.com)

 

January Jones as Betty Draper in Mad Men, with Don (Image from confessionsofahighbrow.com)

In an interview with WWD today, Raf Simons explains how he took the Jil Sander brand  and made it his own by going beyond the parameters which the label had previously worked within:

'I started with the idea of being inspired by everything that I thought was not allowed in the brand Jil Sander — other cultures, another time, another moment in history,” Simons recalled. “It was very naked, very exposed — at least for the Jil Sander brand. That [2009] show was very well received. When I saw that it started to work, and the followers of the brand were open to it and we also got a new customer in, I thought it was the moment to start exploring a new form of language.'

A 20s inspired dress from Simons' Spring 2009 collection for Jil Sander (Image from catwalking.com)

These comments are fascinating in the context of all the SS12 geeking that the FashEd and I have been doing. We've noticed that some our favourite collections have taken reference from a bygone era but made that reference look incredibly modern and right for now. Take a look at the drop waist dresses at Theysken's Theory or Preen's Virginia Woolf influences (which I blogged about during LFW) to see what I mean. 

Raf Simons (from culturesinbetween.net)

Finally, this film from Nowness.com is such a treat for anybody who loves fashion- so I assume that's all of you! Cathy Horyn from the New York Times talks to Alexander McQueen Creative Director Sarah Burton. We hear about the fashion industry from their perspective and how McQueen faithfully retains its aesthetic from season to season, apparently eschewing trends, or a desire to set them. I remember watching Sarah Burton explain the royal wedding dress and I could listen to her going through intricate details and elements of artisanship for hours on end such is the depth of her knowledge and the passion with which she narrates it.The film itself also zooms through pieces from the SS12 collection so you can sort of say you've been inside a McQueen gown. If I haven't sold it to you by now then please just watch it!


Diving for McQueen on Nowness.com.

FETISH ALERT! WHEN MARC JACOBS MET HOUSE OF HARLOT

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large 

Marc Jacobs AW11 with rubber sequin dress by Robin Archer at House of Harlot

Angelina's handcuff clutch (from dailymail.co.uk)

High fashion is all over fetish like a rash. All that rubber, leather and fierce S&M chic is such a sexy visual. Funny thing is, though, despite all of Lady Gaga's efforts at Mugler, I haven't seen a single fashionista who has yet adopted an element of fetish for her wardrobe this season. Have you? OK Angelina Jolie has the handcuff handbag from Louis Vuitton and Jessie J is never knowingly dressed without an element of rubber about her person, but that's about it.

Fleet Ilya by Rankin

HOWEVER that isn't to say fetish should be ignored. The fashion and bondage label Fleet Ilya (above), designed by Ilya Fleet and his wife Resha Sharma create exquisite leather work that takes my breath away, not to mention the  Rankin shoot of Sophie + Jethro, from which the above photograph is taken. I will be blogging more about them in the next week.

Fleet Ilya necklace £310

Now, I would like to I to introduce to you what I consider to be the true source of the fetish trend for this season, a company little known outside the fetish world, and one which is on the speed-dial of Marc Jacobs: House of Harlot.

One of my favourite pieces from House of Harlot, the Bella skirt 

The first five exits of the Marc Jacobs autumn/fall winter 2011 collection featured rubber pieces all of which were created  by House of Harlot, run by Robin Archer, a Saint Martins trained designer in his forties who has been fetish obsessed since he experienced a night at the famous Torture Garden club in the early nineties with his wife and muse Michelle.


“It was pretty hardcore,” says Robin. “Full of straight-up perverts, but there was an element of kinky interest in the world of design, and a group of us went.” For the occasion Robin made himself a top-to-toe coverage rubber outfit with strategic zips; Michelle bought a super-sexy rubber dress to pour her very curvy figure into. This single visit turned the couple into kinky fashion junkies whose aim was to have the best outfits around – and they did. “Michelle was my muse, and I began to make her different outfits for each event," says Robin. They turned up as Kinky Wasps, as the Hussar & Hussee they even created some genius rubber pinstripe suits.

Robin and Michelle in full fetish mode (their picture)

Soon people were asking Robin to create outfits for them and House of Harlot was born. Today it is the go-to design house not just for anyone with a bit of kink in their blood, (they create custom fetish wear as well as rubber fashion essentials) but also global designers who want high fashion rubber clothes. “The first designer who came to us was Thierry Mugler, who said ‘I understand you are the people who make best practise rubber fashion.’ We were like, yesss!” They haven’t looked back since, and have created rubber clothes for Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior, House of Holland, Nicole Farhi and, as I was saying, Marc Jacobs.

The best-selling House of Harlot Mabel waist-cincher

I popped to see Robin a few weeks ago at the new House of Harlot store just off Brick Lane so he could tell me all about how the Marc Jacobs collaboration came about. And he told me everything.

FASHION EDITOR AT LARGE: How did Marc Jacobs hear about House of Harlot?
ROBIN ARCHER: "Marc reminded me that he had actually rung me 12 years ago, to ask me whether I could help him make clothes out of rubber. I said "I will make them for you." I didn't even know who he was then, which is pretty unforgivable, I worked exclusively for the fetish world then, creating one-off pieces on commission. But he called me back in 2003 and we began working with him at Louis Vuitton, and we've been collaborating on and off since. The last time we did Louis Vuitton was 2007."

FEAL: How was he to work with?
RA: "He is very easy to work with. He has got easier..it was harder in the old days. Now it is easy and enjoyable."

FEAL: Why would a designer need to come to a rubber specialist, surely one fabric shouldn't confound a world-class designer?
RA: "The rubber world is so small and full of skilled people. We need our own guild really, to protect the secrets. It is so highly specialised, and Marc respects that. We design and make the pieces to his brief, he knows we are the ones the Haute Couture houses deal with. And he knows we will work out complicated things. For the Autumn/Winter 2011 Marc Jacobs show he asked us to create tops, skirts, dresses and a jacket. For the skirts and tops he wanted them covered with rubber sequins that had the look of fish scales. Each skirt in the show took over a day to make.

FEAL: How did the collaboration work?
RA: I was backstage at the show as the specialised dresser for all the rubber pieces. I worked with Marc on each piece before the show. We worked piece by piece, the work was so well received by Marc that our looks were the first five looks on the runway. Considering how much he has to do, he is calm, controlled, organised and collected. Totally great too work with."

FEAL: How many pieces did you do, how long did it take?
RA: "We made a total of 12 individual items for the show, and then when orders came in for Marc Jacobs global network of stores, we created a few dozen skirts at retail for the global market, and for the top we made significantly more.  The great thing was I didn't have to alter a single thing from our samples; just a handful of tweaks for the fit. The design process is: we receive sketches, and then we create prototypes. We did that, but next the sketches came with a new addition of rubber sequins on, so we started all over again, working out how to do it by hand. [Every order that comes in online results in the order then being individually handmade by one of Robins team of two designers and two interns.] And then we stuck with it."

FEAL: How was the whole process?
RA: "The great thing about Marc is he knows what he wants, makes decisions, and gets on with it. I was backstage to get the clothes on and off in the right way. Its a hard job, but someone has to do it!! I gifted Marc a transparent royal blue rubber shirt and he wore it backstage and to take his bow, which was really nice. Marc Jacobs wore HOH at his own show." Bless.

Ribbon Bra and Lacedback Knicker set £199  




Visit HouseofHarlot.com
Robin Archer also has a new store and design studio at 63-65 Princelet Street, E1.
0207 247 1069