Those people at Dior at sneaky. While we were all comatose after our four day Easter weekend, they sprang upon us the news which we've been waiting for well over a year. Raf Simons is to succeed John Galliano as Creative Director at Christian Dior. Cathy Horyns broke the news for the New York Times. Of course, Twitter exploded and it wasn't long before thoughts turned to how Dior will look with Simons at the helm. The FashEd wrote about the great loves which have informed Raf's design vision until now. We can't wait for July, when Simons' first couture collection will be unveiled.
Raf to Dior (image from www.ology.com)
For quite some time, it was thought that Marc Jacobs may leave Louis Vuitton to take up the Dior role. Of course, he hasn't. Instead this week he's been celebrating his 49th birthday with a holiday in Rio. In fact, if you want to spy a designer taking time out then now is the time to keep an eye out at the world's loveliest beaches. The AW12 selling season is done and there's the whole Summer ahead to worry about SS13.
Marc rejoices in the waves as his boyfriend harry Louis looks on. (image from dailymail.co.uk)
So Marc has had free reign to frolic in the waves with his boyfriend Harry Louis and provide us with many lovely pics of their beach antics. Happy Birthday for Monday, Marc!
Marc with Amanda Lepore in 2006 (image from fashionologie.com)
While fashion's biggest vacancy has now been filled, there are still a few major designers without roles. Most notably, Stefano Pilati who left YSL after March's AW12 show to be replaced by Hedi Slimane. New whisperings this week suggest that Pilati may be recruited by Armani to take over from the eponymous designer who is now in his late 70s. Watch this space...
Stefano Pilati gets hug from Chloe Sevingy(image from stylefrizz.com)
Daphne Guinness in her bespoke McQueen dress which is expected to fetch up to £20,000 (image from vogue.co.uk)
There's still a couple of months to go before the UK goes into Jubilee and Olympic frenzy. The madness has already begun in advertising with every other TV and cinema ad featuring tenuous links to the activities. There are some perfectly delightful projects getting us geared up for a Summer of patriotism though. Harvey Nichols have transformed their windows into a mid-century tribute to Britain at the time of the Coronation. Luckily, the SS12 collections ladylike and pastel themes fit in very nicely. You nip into fishmongers "Nic's Plaice" for all trends nautical and mermaid-y while "Harvey Nickers" is the go-to for lacy prettiness. And it wouldn't be SS12 without Meadham Kirchhoff in the sweet shop.
Rodarte's Van Gogh dress takes pride of place in the greengrocers (image from telegraph.co.uk)
The mermaid at Nic's Plaice (image from telegraph.co.uk)
Meadham Kirchhoff"s sugary sweet shop (image from telegraph.co.uk)
Last week, I wrote about our culture of thinness and, more widely, a disdain for women's bodies. This week, Ashley Judd, a female celebrity who has been the subject of the media's wild judgements of her appearance, spoke out against the practise.
Ashley Judd, whose face has caused extensive speculation recently (image from www.thedailybeast.com)
"I hope the sharing of my thoughts can generate a new conversation: Why was a puffy face cause for such a conversation in the first place? How, and why, did people participate? If not in the conversation about me, in parallel ones about women in your sphere? What is the gloating about? What is the condemnation about? What is the self-righteous alleged “all knowing” stance of the media about? How does this symbolize constraints on girls and women, and encroach on our right to be simply as we are, at any given moment? How can we as individuals in our private lives make adjustments that support us in shedding unconscious actions, internalized beliefs, and fears about our worthiness, that perpetuate such meanness? What can we do as families, as groups of friends? Is what girls and women can do different from what boys and men can do? What does this have to do with how women are treated in the workplace?"
Should you be heading to LA this Summer, be sure to visit the new Herb Ritts: LA Style exhibition which is taking place at the Getty Centre. The legendary 1980s photographer was remembered by Naomi Campbell to The Guardian this week. Ritts may be best know for his stark and sculptural images of supermodels including Campbell, Christy Turlington and Cindy Crawford. I love the image below which captures the nude, intertwined bodies of some of the best know women of the time.
Stephanie, Cindy, Christy, Tatjana, Naomi, Hollywood from 1989 by Herb Ritts (image from a selection on the Guardian.)
The Great Scrunchie Debate, first ignited when Carrie screwed her nose up at a tourist's choice of ponytail binding in Sex and the City series 6, has been revisited this week with the 'news' that American Secretary of State, Hilary Clinton's aides would like her to keep her to put way her beloved scrunchies. Sartorially speaking, it's probably fair to say that Ms. Clinton probably has more in common with a tourist from Georgia than fashion obsessed Carrie. However, what with the current trend for a 80s/90s street rave look, a scrunchie could be a rather nice addition to the look. Really, it's all in the styling. I like the experiments of the girls from Elle- scrunchies are not so bad as Clinton's colleagues might make out, but perhaps not teamed with Carolina Herrera trouser suits in the same colour.
Hilary Clinton works the scrunchie (image from www.politico.com)
Ginnifer Goodwin works the Margot the catwalk way (image from glamour.com)
Coleen rocks the Margot at Aintree (image from daily mail)
Roksanda Ilincic's wonderful Margot dress- in bright fuchsia with bell sleeves- has been tipped to be the dress of this season, having sold out 80 times over (and maybe more) by now at Matches. Cute American actress Ginnifer Goodwin was recently seen it it and the FashEd tells me that a few of her editor friends are also proud owners. Basically, it was all going so well. Until yesterday that it is, when Coleen Rooney rocked up to the first day of Aintree clad in her very own Margot dress. Rather than retaining Ilincic's looser, longer and more chic catwalk styling Coleen had chosen a version which was short and tight. While we love that Coleen is supporting London designers, to our eye she made the Margot into a whole new dress. Of course, this is actually proof that it IS the dress of the season, but thankfully, when it fits right the look is so different it might as well be another garment. Will some cool girl please come and revive Margot's reputation?
Finally video of the week goes to Gia Coppola's (niece of Sophia) short and kooky and lovely film to mark the collaboration between DVF and Current Elliott. It's called Writer's Block and tells the story of a young and beautiful screen writer and her, er, writer's block. The music, by Robert Schwartzman, another relative, gives it a kind of 60s horror film drama. And the clothes are lovely too, modelled throughout by the film's star Tracy Antonopolous. It's definitely a refreshing take on the DVF brand.
For most girls, being without your handbag is like Karl Lagerfeld being without his gloves. Wrong and, quite frankly, disquieting. Every day, I haul around books, magazines, diaries, make-up and don't use half of it but just feel much safer having it all about my person. It's all there just in case who-knows-what-happens, suddenly requiring me to produce 4 pens, a pad of post-its and 16 paracetamol. Seeing as my life is kept in my handbag, it would be really bothersome to be packing and unpacking it every night, which is why mine is classic, neutral (to go with any outfit) and made from tough leather. I reckon this is why lots of girls bags are sort of boring. I was fine with this until now, but two big name bag collaborations are making me think that the contents of my bag might appreciate a new, much snazzier home.
Anselm Reyle's collection for Dior (images courtesy of Dior)
First up is Anselm Reyle's collection for Dior. The Berlin-based artist has taken some of Dior's classic shapes, like the Lady and splashed them with super bright prints as well as graphic stitching and quilting.
Anselm Reyle working on his Dior collection
Reyle explains his approach like this...
'I like working on the Lady Dior handbag. Most of my work builds on objects that already exist, which I then transform. For this project I did it the same way. I decided to focus on the classical bags of the Dior label'
An example of Anselm Reyle's work, from www.contemporaryartdaily.com
About his art, Reyle has said that it is about 'taking a stereotype to breathe new life into it'. Of course, this is not the first time that an artist has put their stamp on a classic shape at a design house- think Vuitton's Murakami and Sprouse projects for starters. However, with no big name at Dior right now an artist collaboration like this provides a clear creative signature in the interlude; Bill Gaytten might be in place but the collections he's produced thus far mostly take us back to the origins of the house rather than thinking about NOW. In a small way, it is Reyle who is breathing the life into Dior at the moment. He's also worked with Dior on a beauty line which works with the same themes and colours as the bags.
Second on the new bright bag scene is Mary Katrantzou's collaboration with French bag maker, Longchamp. This is a pretty genius move on their part to bring a much needed new visual to a brand which over here, is usually seen on the arm a certain kind of classic looking lady, and sometimes her slightly too blonde haired/ fake tanned daughter. I see virtually every other woman carrying one in the street when I go to France too. So, the partnership with print genius Katrantzou takes Longchamp to a whole new fashion, rather than simply practical, level. The lucky FashEd has been carrying hers for a while now and it looks amazing; the shapes have been updated but are still chic and close to the brand's identity but they are majorly pepped up by the printed exterior. The bags are based around an 'East meets West' theme- the balloons and temple motifs in super bright colours bringing that Eastern element.
Longchamp x Mary Katrantzou (all images from www.colette.fr)
Mary working on her designs
Balloons and blossoms make the classic Longchamp bag a whole lot more exciting
Love the rope handle- a perfect holiday bag.
Mary's prints on the catwalk, from SS12 (www.catwalking.com)
If Reyle and Katrantzou can't convince us to ditch the safe, everyday classic and pack a little colourful punch into our bags for Spring, what else possibly could?
Anselm Reyle for Dior bags are available now, until March in Dior boutiques and concessions worldwide.
Mary Katrantzou for Longchamp bags are available here at Longchamp.com and in Longchamp stores. Prices start at £94
