THE WEEK IN FASHION: 30th APRIL- 4th MAY

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

It's been another busy week in the fashion world, so before we head off to enjoy our three day Bank Holiday weekend, here's the round-up of all the need to know news from the past seven days...

It's the start of the month which means a flurry of new covers are coming in ready for our enjoyment. Kate Moss (who was apparently drinking at The Groucho until 7am this morning-what a woman) is the incarnation of Versace's modern mermaid on the cover of British Vogue's Gold issue. She was shot by Mert and Marcus, complete with very fat rope (previously seen in a Beckham shot) and underwater-esque background. It's the stuff fashion dreams are made of.

Kate Moss on the cover of June's Vogue (image from Vogue.co.uk)

Meanwhile, iD have two particularly genius covers amongst the eight on offer for the Summer 'Lights, Camera, Action' issue. Julia Restoin Roitfeld is not the first woman to show her bump on a magazine cover but this interpretation of the genre is rather kookier than usual- with Julia clutching a teddy and wearing sexy lingerie in a sumptuous boudoir.

Another cover shows newly appointed Dior designer Raf Simons sheltering from the camera beneath a selection of flowers. The image seems just right for the moment, the flowers symbolising Dior prettiness while the grey and Raf's slightly hidden face hint at the newness and rethinking which is surely to come at the label. There's an accompanying interview where Raf talks about his final Jil Sander collection and what motivates him as a designer. The issue is available next week on the iD site and at shops soon after.

Helena Bonham Carter is having a bit of a moment this month. She has modelled some totally beautiful McQueen and Westwood gowns for Harper's Bazaar's June issue... Here's a Behind the Scenes video from the shoot...


Daniel Radcliffe, with whom Bonham-Carter worked on the Harry Potter films, has interviewed her for, er, Interview. Well it's more of a conversation really, with insights into the lives of both actors. They cover everything from the pressure of having an amazing family to Helena having to audition to be in her quasi-husband (they're only not married because of 'laziness' she says) Tim Burton's Sweeney Todd musical to wearing odd shoes to the Golden Globes. My girl crush on Helena Bonham Carter continues.

Helena Bonham Carter styled by Katie Grand, photographed by
 Peter Lindbergh (from  www.interviewmagazine.com)

All 19 Vogue International editors came together this week to launch their new Health Initiative which will mean that they endeavor to only use healthy models (i.e ones who aren't suffering from an eating disorder) who are over the age of 16 on their pages. Alex Shulman writes in her Editor's Letter that 'as one of the fashion industry's most powerful voices, Vogue has a unique opportunity to engage with relevant issues where we feel we can make a difference'. As the FashEd pointed out in a tweet yesterday, we really hope this excellent policy extends to celebrities as well as models. I wrote more about this issue a few weeks ago. Bravo to Vogue for taking a stand. 

Excitement is building for Monday night's Met Gala which will open the much anticipated 'Schiaparelli and Prada: Impossible Conversations' exhibition. Of course, US Vogue is leading the build-up by looking back at galas in years gone by. First up, Andre Leon Talley, the magazine's rather awesome Editor-at-Large, has chosen his top 10 outfits. He seems to have a predilection for black taffeta and frou frou fairytale given his choices. We're excited to see how Miuccia Prada will play the red carpet celebrity dressing next week. Her AW12 collections showed a serious trouser moment so maybe Mr Leon Talley will be disappointed on the big ballgown front.

Andre's favourites: Rihanna in Dolce and Gabbana in 2009

Andre's favourites: Doutzen Kroes in Zac Posen in 2010 (images from vogue.com)

And in case you haven't been invited, Vogue has given us a peek of how our invite would look if we were on the list. For this year's exhibition, they've nodded to Schiaparelli's association with Surrealism with a lip design. I love the image used on the invite for 2010's 'American Woman'.

Will we get in if we print this out and put on some Prada? (image from vogue.com)

The invite to 2010's 'American Woman: Fashioning a National Identity' (image from Vogue.com)

Australian Fashion Week has been taking place in Sydney this week. We've been enjoying Susie Bubble's posts which are a brilliant mixture of catwalk reports and snippets for getting to know the Australian fashion scene. A We Are Handsome swimming costume is top of my summer shopping list so I was very pleased when this image from their show pinged into my inbox.

We Are Handsome AW12

Romance Was Born AW12 from stylebubble.co.uk

 Speaking of fashion weeks, street style favourite Anna Dello Russo has become the latest H&M collaborator. Fans of the Vogue Nippon editor will get the chance to emulate her style with a selection of blingtastic accessories.  There'll be more on this next week on the blog but it's rather fascinating that it was a stylist/ editor whose look seemed the most relevant to H&M to bring to the masses, rather than another big name designer. The range is out on October 4th, just after fashion month ends

Anna Dello Russo modelling some pieces from her collection (image from telegraph.co.uk)

There was a glimmer of hope in the continuing race to save Aquascutum this week as it emerged that exclusive talks were underway to sell the business to Hong Kong based YGM Trading. Unfortunately this doesn't provide much hope for those who were left out of work after the Corby factory was shut. There are separate talks being held to sell that asset. If the brand loses its Made in Britain element, it will be a great shame.

Last night there was a party in Paris to celebrate 30 years of Guess. Those who worked together to create some of the brand's most iconic images were there...

Ellen Von Unwerth and Claudia Schiffer at Guess's 30th Birthday bash (image from THE LOVE magazine's twitter)

The Sunday Times' annual Rich List was released last weekend. It helps confirm what we already know from the trickle of news and figures which we see each week... luxury is still booming but retail is a hard environment. Mulberry owner Christina Ong rose 53 places to 61, but Britain's biggest retail magnate, Phillip Green lost £900 million of his fortune last year, ouch.

Karl Lagerfeld has been brought in to redesign the exterior of the Hotel Metropole in Monte Carlo. Reaffirming that he is a man of many talents, in case there was any doubt. To whet our appetite for the unveiling of the first phase in July, Lagerfeld has released some frescos starring his favourite male model Baptiste Giabconi...

Inspiration for the new Hotel Metropole (image from telegraph.co.uk)

Manish Arora has mysteriously ended his thus far successful tenure at Paco Rabanne it was revealed today.  The label had become relevant trend wise as well as gaining attention thanks to Lady Gaga wearing some pieces at the MTV awards in 2011.'Revisiting the Paco Rabanne fashion was a very enriching experience and an exceptional artistic and human adventure. I am, today, happy to have accomplished the mission I was trusted with in order to cast this iconic brand back into the spotlight', Arora told WWD.

We leave you with a gorgeous backstage video from Alexander McQueen's AW12 show... Happy Weekend!

THE WEEK IN FASHION: APRIL 23rd- 27th

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Happy Friday Fashion People. I'm afraid today is a somewhat condensed version of our news round-up after we were caught up in this afternoon's drama on Tottenham Court Road.

Our main story this week involves American jeweller (and CFDA/ Vogue Fashion Fund Award runner-up) Pamela Love, Chanel and a particularly astute law student...

Pamela Love's gem encrusted bangles....

And the Chanel version  (images from www.fashion-law.org)

Back in March, Julie Zerbo wrote a blog post pointing out the uncanny similarity between a bangle shown during the Chanel AW12 show and a design by Pamela Love. Zerbo highlighted her blog post to Fashionista. They picked up the story and, ta dah, within 24 hours Chanel had pledged not to produce the bracelet 'out of respect for the concerns raised'. This seems to us like a pretty major development in the ongoing saga of copying. We see it day in, day out. It's perhaps particularly unfair to young designers who have their ideas ripped off by massive companies who go on to make mega money while the young designer continues to struggle through establishing their business (AND receive no credit). Zerbo's Fashion Law blog could be the fashion industry's future vanguard against these happenings- and how amazing that she is just a 25 year-old student- Go Julie!

Alistair Carr (image from www.grahamfudger.co.uk)

Not much more than a year after his appointment, Alistair Carr has left Pringle. The brand, which shows at LFW, apparently plans to reduce its presence with smaller presentations. The current in-house designers will  now lead the label's creative direction.

Giles Deacon, designer of the year (image from wmagazine.com)

FEAL is sending good wishes and massive, well deserved congratulation to Giles Deacon who was awarded Designer of the Year award at the World Fashion Awards in Moscow earlier this week. His sumptuously medieval AW12 show was a fashion week highlight for me. The mythical brocade and burnt out ballgowns were standouts.

Natalia Vodianova on the cusp of scoffing an eclair! (www.modelinia.tumblr.com)

Natalia Vodianova sparked controversy at the Vogue Festival last week when she stood up for skinny models. 'C'mon guys, you know it's better to be skinny than to be fat' she said, before going on to point out how much the NHS is spending on increasing levels of obesity. Although Vodianova's comments shouldn't detract from the very troubling issue of too-skinny models, I do think she has a point about putting society's problems into context.

Coco looking cute in clothes (image from www.fashiongonerogue.com)

Ever so cute and in-demand model Coco Rocha has condemned Elle Brazil this week after they apparently photoshopped away part of a body suit she was wearing in a cover shoot for the magazine. This meant that they breached the terms of her contract which has strict nudity clauses. As Coco's not happy, we won't be reproducing the picture here.

Donatella with her late brother Gianni (image from time.com)

After dabbling with a presentation back in January, Donatella Versace will hold two full-on couture shows at the Ritz in Paris on July 1st, just before the hotel closes for renovations. Donatella said:

"It is with tremendous emotion that I return to the Ritz where I shared so many special moments with my brother. The closing of the Ritz Paris for two years represents the end of an era but also the beginning of a new one, so to be able to show Atelier Versace there one last time will be a memorable milestone."

Lulu Kennedy, founder of Fashion East (johnpaulpryor.tumblr.com)

Huge congrats to Lulu Kennedy who has been appointed Editor at Large of the gorgeous 
LOVE magazine

Opening Ceremony will be launching a pop-up store to coincide with... wait for it.... the 
Olympic opening ceremonies. Brilliant

 Another sad demise, this week it's Betsey Johnson which has filed for bankruptcy.

Tinie Tempah (image from guardian.co.uk)

Loving this interview with super suave Tinie Tempah. Favourite line? 'I'm not sure what I'm there for really, I guess they are pimping me out' (on his partaking in the Menswear 2012 committee for the BFC

It's the Met Gala next week which will see the launch of the museum's Prada/ Schiaparelli exhibition. Everyone from Vogue will apparently be wearing pink in homage to Elsa Sciaparelli's favourite colour. It seems Rihanna and Claire Danes got the memo early...

Claire Danes in Narciso Rodriguez (from nytimes.com)

Rihanna in Vivienne Westwood- a lovely change from her normal look (from dailymail.co.uk)

Finally, video of the week is Jospehine de la Baume and her brother Alex talking about their new band Singtank for farfetch.com. Their music sounds like perfect weekend listening...

THE WEEK IN FASHION: APRIL 9th-13th

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Those people at Dior at sneaky. While we were all comatose after our four day Easter weekend, they sprang upon us the news which we've been waiting for well over a year. Raf Simons is to succeed John Galliano as Creative Director at Christian Dior. Cathy Horyns broke the news for the New York Times. Of course, Twitter exploded and it wasn't long before thoughts turned to how Dior will look with Simons at the helm. The FashEd wrote about the great loves which have informed Raf's design vision until now. We can't wait for July, when Simons' first couture collection will be unveiled.

Raf to Dior (image from www.ology.com)

For quite some time, it was thought that Marc Jacobs may leave Louis Vuitton to take up the Dior role. Of course, he hasn't. Instead this week he's been celebrating his 49th birthday with a holiday in Rio. In fact, if you want to spy a designer taking time out then now is the time to keep an eye out at the world's loveliest beaches. The AW12 selling season is done and there's the whole Summer ahead to worry about SS13.

Marc rejoices in the waves as his boyfriend harry Louis looks on. (image from dailymail.co.uk)

So Marc has had free reign to frolic in the waves with his boyfriend Harry Louis and provide us with many lovely pics of their beach antics. Happy Birthday for Monday, Marc!

Marc with Amanda Lepore in 2006 (image from fashionologie.com)

While fashion's biggest vacancy has now been filled, there are still a few major designers without roles. Most notably, Stefano Pilati who left YSL after March's AW12 show to be replaced by Hedi Slimane. New whisperings this week suggest that Pilati may be recruited by Armani to take over from the eponymous designer who is now in his late 70s. Watch this space...

Stefano Pilati gets  hug from Chloe Sevingy(image from stylefrizz.com)

Daphne Guinness is donating pieces from her vast fashion collection to a Christies auction to launch and raise funds for The Isabella Blow foundation. Highlights include a silver dress which Lee McQueen made especially for Guinness in 2008. Apparently some of the items to be auctioned could sell for as  little as £300, what might that be? A Chanel button maybe? The Isabella Blow Foundation will raise funds to continue Issie's work, nurturing emerging from the art and fashion worlds.

Daphne Guinness in her bespoke McQueen dress which is expected to fetch up to £20,000 (image from vogue.co.uk)

There's still a couple of months to go before the UK goes into Jubilee and Olympic frenzy. The madness has already begun in advertising with every other TV and cinema ad featuring tenuous links to the activities. There are some perfectly delightful projects getting us geared up for a Summer of patriotism though. Harvey Nichols have transformed their windows into a mid-century tribute to Britain at the time of the Coronation. Luckily, the SS12 collections ladylike and pastel themes fit in very nicely. You nip into fishmongers "Nic's Plaice" for all trends nautical and mermaid-y while "Harvey Nickers" is the go-to for lacy prettiness. And it wouldn't be SS12 without Meadham Kirchhoff in the sweet shop.

Rodarte's Van Gogh dress takes pride of place in the greengrocers (image from telegraph.co.uk)

The mermaid at Nic's Plaice (image from telegraph.co.uk)

Meadham Kirchhoff"s sugary sweet shop (image from telegraph.co.uk)

Last week, I wrote about our culture of thinness and, more widely,  a disdain for women's bodies. This week, Ashley Judd,  a female celebrity who has been the subject of the media's wild judgements of her appearance, spoke out against the practise.

Ashley Judd, whose face has caused extensive speculation recently (image from www.thedailybeast.com)

Here's an extract from her lengthy piece, which is well worth reading in full:

"I hope the sharing of my thoughts can generate a new conversation: Why was a puffy face cause for such a conversation in the first place? How, and why, did people participate? If not in the conversation about me, in parallel ones about women in your sphere? What is the gloating about? What is the condemnation about? What is the self-righteous alleged “all knowing” stance of the media about? How does this symbolize constraints on girls and women, and encroach on our right to be simply as we are, at any given moment? How can we as individuals in our private lives make adjustments that support us in shedding unconscious actions, internalized beliefs, and fears about our worthiness, that perpetuate such meanness? What can we do as families, as groups of friends? Is what girls and women can do different from what boys and men can do? What does this have to do with how women are treated in the workplace?"

Should you be heading to LA this Summer, be sure to visit the new Herb Ritts: LA Style exhibition which is taking place at the Getty Centre. The legendary 1980s photographer was remembered by Naomi Campbell to The Guardian this week. Ritts may be best know for his stark and sculptural images of supermodels including Campbell, Christy Turlington and Cindy Crawford. I love the image below which captures the nude, intertwined bodies of some of the best know women of the time. 

Stephanie, Cindy, Christy, Tatjana, Naomi, Hollywood from 1989 by Herb Ritts (image from a selection on the Guardian.)

The Great Scrunchie Debate, first ignited when Carrie screwed her nose up at a tourist's choice of ponytail binding in Sex and the City series 6, has been revisited this week with the 'news' that American Secretary of State, Hilary Clinton's aides would like her to keep her to put way her beloved scrunchies. Sartorially speaking, it's probably fair to say that Ms. Clinton probably has more in common with a tourist from Georgia than fashion obsessed Carrie. However, what with the current trend for a 80s/90s street rave look, a scrunchie could be a rather nice addition to the look. Really, it's all in the styling. I like the experiments of the girls from Elle- scrunchies are not so bad as Clinton's colleagues might make out, but perhaps not teamed with Carolina Herrera trouser suits in the same colour. 

Hilary Clinton works the scrunchie (image from www.politico.com)

Scrunchies for now- image from www.sweetandsound.co.uk

Ginnifer Goodwin works the Margot the catwalk way (image from glamour.com)

Coleen rocks the Margot at Aintree (image from daily mail)

Roksanda Ilincic's wonderful Margot dress- in bright fuchsia with bell sleeves- has been tipped to be the dress of this season, having sold out 80 times over (and maybe more) by now at Matches. Cute American actress Ginnifer Goodwin was recently seen it it and the FashEd tells me that a few of her editor friends are also proud owners. Basically, it was all going so well. Until yesterday that it is, when Coleen Rooney rocked up to the first day of Aintree clad in her very own Margot dress. Rather than retaining Ilincic's looser, longer and more chic catwalk styling Coleen had chosen a version which was short and tight. While we love that Coleen is supporting London designers, to our eye she made the Margot into a whole new dress. Of course, this is actually proof that it IS the dress of the season, but thankfully, when it fits right the look is so different it might as well be another garment. Will some cool girl please come and revive Margot's reputation?

Finally video of the week goes to Gia Coppola's (niece of Sophia) short and kooky and lovely film to mark the collaboration between DVF and Current Elliott. It's called Writer's Block and tells the story of a young and beautiful screen writer and her, er, writer's block. The music, by Robert Schwartzman, another relative, gives it a kind of 60s horror film drama. And the clothes are lovely too, modelled throughout by the film's star Tracy Antonopolous. It's definitely a refreshing take on the DVF brand.

THE WEEK IN FASHION: 30th JANUARY- 2nd FEBRUARY

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

It's cold outside, here's some fashion news to warm you up...

Jonathan Saunders SS12

Congratulations to the super wonderful Jonathan Saunders who has won the BFC/ Vogue Fashion Fund Award. He'll get £200,000 and specific mentoring to help his business grow. It's clear to me that Saunders 'gets' something about what women want from their clothes which is why his sales have skyrocketed by 118% in the past year; for the London shows, every other front rower was wearing a piece of Saunders. We're really pleased for you Jonathan! Let's not forget the runners-up who must have made the panel's decision pretty tough; Peter Pilotto, Mary Katrantzou, Roksanda Ilincic, Richard Nicoll, Zoe Jordan, Nicholas Kirkwood, Marios Schwab and Meadham Kirchhoff.

When  Jonathan's win was announced, Lulu Kennedy (who supported Jonathan through her Fashion East scheme early in his career) tweeted a picture of Natalia Vodianova wearing a Saunder's dress on the cover of Vogue in 2004. I thought it'd be nice to share- thanks Lulu!

Jonathan Saunders covers Vogue in 2004- image from Lulu kennedy's twitter

A look from Stine Riis' collection (from wwd.com)

The first winner of the H&M Design Award was announced at Stockholm Fashion Week yesterday. Stine Riis is originally from Denmark but recently graduated from London College of Fashion. She wins 50,000 euros as well as the opportunity to have pieces from her collection sold in H&M stores in the Autumn. Check out the video below for all the action from the final...



Talking of LCF, the FashEd and I had a brilliant and inspiring time on Tuesday night at the college's MA exhibition. We heard lots of great stories and saw some beautiful work. Look out for our full report next week.

 Last year, Robin Derrick left British Vogue to work on the re-launch of the US edition of Harper's Bazaar. The fruits of his challenge to revamp the title were revealed this week with a stark monochrome cover starring Gwyneth Paltrow. According to our favourite New York tweeter @jimshi809 the 'Redesigned Harper's Bazaar US is one-inch bigger w/ thicker paper & new fonts & every new section starts w/ the world "the."' Now we know!

One of the many brilliant personalities in the Cunningham film,  Shail Upadhya, a
Nepalese UN representative and one of Bill's regular subjects.

This week, I spent an amazing evening at the UK premiere of 'Bill Cunningham New York', Richard Press's new documentary about the 80 year-old New York Times photographer. The event was sponsored by Grazia, and afterwards Paula Reed hosted a Q&A with Chris Moore, legendary catwalk photographer and owner of catwalking.com. His is a completely unique career which has seen him chart 'true' trends from the past half century. As well as paying attention to what's happening on the catwalks, Bill tirelessly scours the streets of NYC to discover what people are REALLY wearing and how they're wearing it. Many call him the original street style photographer. Although I think that's true, there's definitely much more to it than that which is why I am very happy to see the film's blurb describe him as a 'cultural anthropologist'. His observations are sharp and his knowledge of fashion and trends is encyclopaedic. His comparison of the work of Rei Kawakubo at Comme des Garcons in the 80s with the style of the bag women living on the streets of New York at the time is still playing on my mind, and shows the unique position he is in to marry the pavement and the catwalk. The film is a must-see, even if fashion is not your thing. It's out at selected cinemas in March. 

Cunningham's fab picture of Isabella Blow (from lightbox.time.com)

Another month, another round of magazine covers. Elle and Vogue have both gone with Louis Vuitton's sugar sweet broderie anglaise for their fronts covers. Lana del Rey is Vogue's new cover girl demostrating the astonishing speed of her rise from unknown to virtually notorious; her newly released album has not received the best reviews yet she is number one in multiple countries. But if Vogue puts her on the cover then it confirms that there is something of the zeitgeist about her. Given that Love magazine editor Katie Grand also consults for Louis Vuitton, we thought ice cream girly prettiness was a given for the publication's latest edition. How wrong we were. The cover line reads 'The End of Elegance' which seems a direct challenge to the ladylike loveliness which is clearly the prevailing mood. Does this mean pastels might be as fleeting an obsession as Lana del Rey?

Lana (by Mario Testino) prettified for Vogue (image from www.vogue.co.uk) 

Linda Evangelista covers Love, shot by Mert and Marcus(image from @thelovemagazine)

Fragile: Linda Evangelista in Giles (image from @thelovemagazine)

FEAL is mostly about womenswear but that doesn't mean we don't appreciate a well-dressed man. Both of us think Tinie Tempah is a rather fab dresser so we are happy to see that he has been named Britains' Best Dressed Man by GQ. In other news from the list, Prince William didn't make it into the top 50 despite that bright red Irish guards wedding outfit. Wills, if you're upset at GQ's decision we suggest ditching the flat caps and 'cashmere jumper round shoulders' as starting points for sartorial transformation in time for next year, or ask your Dad who scraped in at no. 50.

Tinie does bow ties and monochrome (image from telegraph.co.uk)

After revelations about extravagant mid-recession halloween parties, we'd have thought the Obamas would be keen to avoid any more big spending sprees- not such great publicity in election year. So the story that Michelle paid a visit to the Madison Avenue branch of Agent Provocatuer and picked up $50,000 worth of goodies- lucky Barack- seems very unfortunate. She was apparently accompanying Sheikha Mozah, the Queen of Qatar, during her trip to the US last year. However, Jay Carney, the White House Press Secretary, strongly denied the story telling WWD:

'In this case, it’s utterly false, and it’s irresponsible of an American news organization to repeat the story, even allowing that it could be true. So it’s wrong.'

Apparently The White House was unable to provide 'evidence' that the First Lady had not visited the purveyors of sexy underwear- the mind boggles. While Michelle cannot be too pleased about the story, Agent Provocateur say the 'unexpected famous names' who patronise the business have contributed to its continued growth.

The Obamas are joined by Tim burton at their halloween do in 2009 (image from chicksontheright.com)

As part of the cultural programme to coincide with the Olympics, the BFC is hosting an International Fashion Showcase across London. Nineteen embassies and cultural institutes will showcase the work of up and coming designers from the countries they represent. Sarah Mower will be chairing a panel of judges which will examine the work of the 80 or so designers set to participate. On 19th February, a winning country will be announced. 

Belgian designer A.Knackfuss is set to be a highlight of the
showcase (image from mussola.style.it)

Finally, while we thought the images for Prada's SS12 campaign were a bit boring but the accompanying video, released this week, adds a bit more attitude to the concept, don't you think?